Edu Marin had never before tried to release a multipich of this caliber, to climb for hours on that roof... Sometimes Edu had the feeling that it never ended and that he was lost in a rock sky. Edu calculate that he has more to climb more than 250 meters of pure roof, an authentic madness
The name of the route is another dedication to the oeuvre of Jim Morrison – the climbing is a present for anyone who joins this game of weird scenes (or moves) inside the gold mine (referring to one of the most impressive landscape, flora and fauna settings among climbing spots in the Alps).
After one decade of absence from Bavaria I am proudly presenting some first sends from the place I really learned climbing at: Kochel. Before leaving to Switzerland in 2006 the routes we climbed here where up to 20m long, mainly of resistance or bouldery style. Meanwhile Kochel has grown big.
"Als er mich gesichert hat und ich meine Route geschafft habe, bin ich buchstäblich in Tränen ausgebrochen [...] Ich hatte so etwas noch nie erlebt und es hat mein Leben für immer verändert..." -- Dave Graham
When Matty Hong sets out to accomplish something, like sending two 5.15a routes in Spain, there's nothing that can stop him from attaining his goal. During his spring trip to Spain, Matty applied himself to no end to make quick work of La Rambla in Siurana and Joe Mama in Oliana.
Am 21. Mai 2017 konnte Michi Wohlleben als Erster die alpine Mehrseillängen-Tour "Parzival"(8b) im Alpsteingebirge (Säntismassiv) frei klettern. Bei perfekten Bedingungen gelangen an diesem Tag alle 6 SL. auf Anhieb rotpunkt.
It's incredible to come back to Oliana year after year and see how this cliff has become an international epicenter for high end sport climbing. It's given me the opportunity to enjoy many special moments with good friends, trying hard routes together and having fun!
At the foot of the Altiplano in northern Argentina lies the wide and sandstone covered valley of Brealito at 2500m of altitude. The place is as calm and beautiful as it can be and there are some thousands of boulders to open (and to brush).
People call it the Mal de la Puna, the illness of the Altiplano, that is due to the lack of oxygen on this as vast as beautiful as lifeless plateau on 4000m, that spreads over thousands of kilometres in between Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru.