Alex Megos never met a route he couldn’t climb in short order…that was until he encountered Bibliographie, an undone sport line at the French super-crag, Céüse.
Jonathan Siegrist has been battling with this route, "Le Cadre Nouvelle" (9a) since he arrived in Ceuse in May 2015. For Jonathan it has a little taste of everything, some sections suited him really well and others were very demanding.
This summer came together much like most of the best things do, completely unplanned. Colette had been blabbing pretty insistently about a girl’s trip to Ceuse in an attempt to "put things out into the universe", you know concentrating her "energy" and all that.
Céüse is arguably the most well-known sport climbing cliff in the world and its walls boast some of the hardest routes ever climbed. With such a plethora of hard, bolted climbs on offer, it's easy to understand why visiting climbers choose to focus on these rather than the crag's more esoteric classics.
Earlier this year Sachi Amma left his mark in the history books of climbing when he crushed the infamous route "Biographie",9a+ in Ceuse, France. Sachi was the 11th person in the world to complete the route opened by Chris Sharma in 2001 who called it "Realization".
Alex Megos is the man. We're not sure if he is superhuman or just 21 years old and hell-bent on getting stronger than anyone else. This summer Alex Megos went for a quick holiday in Céüse to check out the masterpiece that is Biographie, 9a+ and boom, he climbed it on his third try.
Jonathan Siegrist came to Europe with a few goals in mind. One of the foremost was to climb the world's first 9a+ in Céüse, France. He knew from the start that it wouldn't be easy. Over the course of four weeks he worked the route and prepared himself mentally and physically by keeping his hype high, eating lots of hard-boiled eggs, and enjoying the French countryside. He was rewarded for his perseverance when he became only the eight person in history to send the line first imagined by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and first actualized by Chris Sharma - Biographie/Realization 5.15a/ 9a+.
In July, 2001, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Realization (AKA Biographie), the world's first confirmed 5.15 (9a+), in Ceuse, France. This short film shows the process he went through trying the route for many weeks over several trips, and the actual footage of the historic first ascent.
Chris Sharma hat im französischen Top-Klettergebiet Ceüse viele Spuren hinterlassen und mit der "Biographie" nicht nur einen persönlichen Meilenstein geschaffen. Nun ist er "Back in Ceüse" - begleitet von einem Kamerateam, um wieder einmal eine Neutour einzurichten und sich daran zu versuchen. Schöne Bilder und eine tolle Dokumentation, wie Chris sich einer neuen Route im Vorstieg nähert. Einzig der Helm oder vielmehr ie Art des Helms, den Chris beim Bohren im Vorstieg trägt, irritiert dann doch ein wenig und das liegt nicht nur an der Farbe...