Wales

Wales

Redpointing Gray Slate In The Impossible Quarries Of North Wales (c) EpicTV

The gray slate rocks in the quarries of Wales are a notoriously fearsome testing ground for climbing technique. Pete Robins and Nic Sellers go to the The Llanberis quarries to test themselves, waxing lyrical about its joys and providing a master class on how to climb the stuff.

[VIDEO] Alex Megos in "Das Pumpenhausen" (FB 8B)

They may have got the name wrong, but it has indeed taken an overseas visitor to complete a long-standing north Wales boulder project, known locally as the "Fred Nicole Roof'. The first ascent took German climbing prodigy, Alex Megos, two visits to the sea-side venue of Porth Ysgo on the Lleyn Peninsula. Das Pumpenhausen Test Piece is arguably the hardest but without doubt one of the finest problems in Wales. As for the grade Alex suggested 8B but it may be more difficult as he felt the problem suited him.

Alex Megos Sends Wales' Ultimate Problem

Das Pumpenhausen Test Piece F.A.They may have got the name wrong, but it has indeed taken an overseas visitor to complete a long-standing north Wales boulder project, known locally as the 'Fred Nicole Roof'.

[VIDEO] Jude Spanken in "Lord of the flies" (E6 6a)

In diesem Video klettert Jude Spanken, die eigentlich die Deutsche Judith Spancken ist und lange Zeit in Wales, Kanada und Frankreich lebte, die Trad Route "Lord of the flies" (E6 6a) on sight. Man beachte die Ruhe und die Abgeklärtheit, die Judith hier an den Tag legt, auch wenn die Sicherungen ziemlich furchteinflössend sind.

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Moritz Hans beim BWC München 2016. Foto: DAV/Marco Kost

In einer Woche findet der Boulderweltcup München statt. Nicht nur für die zahllosen Helfer beginnt deshalb nun die heiße Phase des Aufbaus, auch die deutschen Athleten befinden sich mittlerweile im Trainings-Endspurt.