When Matty Hong sets out to accomplish something, like sending two 5.15a routes in Spain, there's nothing that can stop him from attaining his goal. During his spring trip to Spain, Matty applied himself to no end to make quick work of La Rambla in Siurana and Joe Mama in Oliana.
It's been a tough year for Hazel Findlay, recovering from shoulder surgery and dealing with the frustration and impatience that goes with serious rehabilitation. Hazel spent most of her winter in Siurana, Spain, sport climbing and getting her shoulder back to strength.
"The moves, the length, the obviousness of the path—it was a king line, or rather, a queen line ... I felt confident a send would come after fairly little effort ... But La Reina Mora is a fearsome queen who demands respect. When in the beginning I ... stood in awe of her beauty, now I looked up at her with resentment for the way she’d exposed my weaknesses and insecurities."
Just after the send of the route "Estado Crítico", first world's 9a onsight, Alex Megos talks about Siurana and "Jungle Speed", a 9a in "La Capella" sector.
Breaking into a new sport climbing grade can be an incredibly difficult challenge, but consolidating that breakthrough can be even harder. Having climbed his first 9a+/5.15a "Realization/Biographie" in 2014, EpicTV Shop climber Jonathan Siegrist set his sights on another classic of the grade: Spain's "La Rambla."
Sonnie Trotter returns to Siurana in Spain after 14 years. This time he is back with his family and wants to try and finish off old projects and test himself on something harder.
Magnus Midtbø crushes the short and powerful Jungle Speed in Siurana in February 2015. The intro comments are made by Martin Mobråten who was the first Norwegian to climb the route a few weeks earlier. The video is from the actual ascent but a few clips are taken from another attempt as Henning Wang had to change positions.
In this episode we're back with Alex Megos for the final part of our interview and today we're asking Alex to tell the story of his best known achievement - becoming the first person in the world to onsight 9a. An accomplishment that would have been unthinkable less than a decade ago.
Alizée Dufraisse writes: I was in Spain again last febuary/march after 3 months training, to have fun there and try to find a project, not especially really hard. I was at the beginning of my big training program, so it was not the time to be in shape to try such a hard thing. First day I arrive, I look "la rambla" and I could resist to go and touch, see how is my level after all this training!!
A short film about the life of Daniel Jung in Siurana (Catalunya) and his climbing on "La Rambla". The footage not only covers Daniel climbing in one of the hardest routes but also his thoughts about life, climbs and travel.
French Phenom Alizee Dufraisse climbs with intense passion and loves the physical and mental challenge of climbing at her limit. In Siurana Spain, she lives her dream, with a handful of very hard projects on her 'tick list'. In her words, "A fight is what makes your life".
Am 19.03.2013 gelang Felix Neumärker eine Wiederholung der spanischen Extremroute "La Rambla" (9a+) in Siurana. Mit seiner und der etwas später erfolgten Begehung durch Alex Megos steht es nun in der deutsch-spanischen Begeherbilanz Untentschieden (jeweils drei von insgesamt zehn Begehungen).
Alex Megos' ascent of Estado Critico at Siurana in Spain is widely accepted as the world's first 9a onsight. The outstanding climbing talent of this 19 year-old is matched by his modesty.
Harte Route und sanfte Musik: Dass auch das zusammen passt, wird in diesem sehr schönen Video unter Beweis gestellt. Dem beschreibenden Text nach handelt es sich bei dem Kletterer, der diese 9a im spanischen Siurana erfolgreich durchsteigen kann, um einen 22-jährigen Russen namens Sasha Gerzha.
Vor nicht allzu langer Zeit gelang Alizée Dufraisse die erste Damenbegehung von La Reina Mora (8c+/9a) im spanischen Siurana. In diesem Video erzählt sie von der Route, von ihren ersten Versuchen, von ihrer Hingabe und schließlich von ihrem Durchstieg. Ausgesprochen gut gefällt mir dabei, dass hier die richtigen Glücksgefühle nach der erfolgreichen Begehung gezeigt werden und spürbare Freude dokumentiert wird. Kein gekünsteltes, nachträgliches arrangiertes "Yes - I did it", weil man die eigentliche Durchsteigung mit der Kamera verpasst hat oder gar ein gequältes Lächeln mit "Brofist"... Hier gibt es den "Real deal"!