The 1980’s saw climbing standards rise exponentially. At the start of the decade, 7b+ was cutting edge, but by the end of the 80’s 9a was the new world standard.
This film follows Irish climber David Fitzgerald (instagram.com/dv_fitzgerald), who after taking up the sport only 5 years ago travelled to the Peak District to try the hardest bouldering problems on grit.
Bereits in seiner frühesten Jugend wurde Ben Moon vom Klettervirus "positiv befallen". Ein Klettertrip führte ihn mit 17 zu seinen damaligen Vorbildern wie Jerry Moffat und Martin Atkinson. Seit dem ist der zurückhaltende, auch medial sehr selektive Brite quasi ein Fixpunkt in DER Klettegeschichte!
Ben Moon talks bouldering progression, sport climbing and where it's all headed. He's firmly back to sport climbing now, and has a new personalised training plan for the winter courtesy of Tom Randall and Lattice Training. Ben has set his sights on 9a Northern Lights at Kilnsey in the UK, and has no doubt it will go down.
After a remarkable career including the World's first 9a ("Hubble"), last year Ben Moon achieved what many thought to be impossible by repeating the climb over 20 years after it's first ascent. Now working towards his nemesis route "Northern Lights", Ben gives us some insight into his training at the School Room.
Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon are legends of our sport. They were playing a leading role in the development of sport climbing and bouldering in the 80's and 90's. Being a superb competition climber as well, Jerry is widely regarded as the best overall climber in the world of the 80's.
We popped round to see Ben Moon and get the knowledge on his ascent of Rainshadow (9a) at Malham Cove: the fourth ascent of the route, which was established by Steve McClure in 2003, and Ben's second 9a, almost twenty-five years after his first ascent of Hubble – the world's first 9a – at Raven Tor.
Nur ein paar Tage vor seinem 49ten Geburtstag und ganze 25 Jahre nach seiner Erstbegehung von "Hubble" (8c+ oder gar doch 9a?) konnte der britische Ausnahmekletterer Ben Moon die vierte Begehung von "Rainshadow" (9a) am Malham Cove für sich verbuchen. Hut ab!
It seems hard to believe but it was 30 years ago back in 1984, aged just 18 that Ben Moon made the first ascent of the UK's 2nd 8a Statement of Youth. At the time it caused quite a stir in the climbing world not because of it's difficulty but because I had used 7 bolts to climb it. To those not familiar with climbing in the 1980s this might seem pretty strange but back then sport climbing in the UK didn't exist.