Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have a pretty good lifestyle. Travelling the world to climb the hardest routes they can find. Gondo crack is a 17-meter finger crack in Switzerland, usually climbed using bolts as protection.
BD Athlete Hazel Findlay is known for her rad trad ability, whether she’s freeing El Cap or climbing crumbly sea-cliffs with sparse protection. When she arrived in Squamish last summer, a friend and fellow Brit knew just the route she should try.
The name of the route is another dedication to the oeuvre of Jim Morrison – the climbing is a present for anyone who joins this game of weird scenes (or moves) inside the gold mine (referring to one of the most impressive landscape, flora and fauna settings among climbing spots in the Alps).
Take Steve McClure (Britain's top sport climber) and Neil Mawson (E10-conquering dark horse). Throw them into the dizzying Verdon Gorge then stir well with the film-making skills of Rich Heap and Ben Pritchard. Attempting a spectacular multi-pitch route, the duo find themselves way off route and have to dig deep to find success.
After one decade of absence from Bavaria I am proudly presenting some first sends from the place I really learned climbing at: Kochel. Before leaving to Switzerland in 2006 the routes we climbed here where up to 20m long, mainly of resistance or bouldery style. Meanwhile Kochel has grown big.
On March 21st the young italian Climber Felix Kiem was able to send "Himmelsreiter". A route graded 8C in the Saustall Crag near Naturns (BZ). It was the 5th ascent after Jacopo Larcher, Ivo Gamper, Rudi Moroder and Günther Karbon.
Where is your limit? Would you recognise it? For Steve McClure it’s an endless series of matchstick edges and nothing holds, high above the Yorkshire Dales. If this climb was one move longer, it would still be a dream… instead it’s the UK’s hardest-ever climb.