The name of the route is another dedication to the oeuvre of Jim Morrison – the climbing is a present for anyone who joins this game of weird scenes (or moves) inside the gold mine (referring to one of the most impressive landscape, flora and fauna settings among climbing spots in the Alps).
Take Steve McClure (Britain's top sport climber) and Neil Mawson (E10-conquering dark horse). Throw them into the dizzying Verdon Gorge then stir well with the film-making skills of Rich Heap and Ben Pritchard. Attempting a spectacular multi-pitch route, the duo find themselves way off route and have to dig deep to find success.
Dirk Uhlig ist schon sehr lange mit Scarpa unterwegs. Was den bekannten Erstbegeher und Routenbauer bewegt seht ihr in der vierten Scarpa Story von diesem Jahr.
After one decade of absence from Bavaria I am proudly presenting some first sends from the place I really learned climbing at: Kochel. Before leaving to Switzerland in 2006 the routes we climbed here where up to 20m long, mainly of resistance or bouldery style. Meanwhile Kochel has grown big.
In March 2018, Alex Honnold traveled to Japan and sampled the country’s rock with the legendary Yuji Hirayama and Toru Nakajima.
On March 21st the young italian Climber Felix Kiem was able to send "Himmelsreiter". A route graded 8C in the Saustall Crag near Naturns (BZ). It was the 5th ascent after Jacopo Larcher, Ivo Gamper, Rudi Moroder and Günther Karbon.
Where is your limit? Would you recognise it? For Steve McClure it’s an endless series of matchstick edges and nothing holds, high above the Yorkshire Dales. If this climb was one move longer, it would still be a dream… instead it’s the UK’s hardest-ever climb.
Im griechischen Meteora haben kletternde Sachsen seit Generationen Spuren hinterlassen. Die Konglomerat-Riesen sind hoch und steil, die Touren zumeist ausgesetzt und schwer abzusichern. In den Wänden gibt es neben den Klassikern noch jede Menge Raum für spektakuläre Erstbegehungen.
In the summer of 2017, Nate Murphy made his way to Yosemite to attempt what would be his toughest big wall challenge to date, to climb the 13 pitches of the Shaft Variation on the Muir Wall, 5.13c/8a+.
In November 2016, Pete Whittaker became the first person to solo - all free - El Capitan in under 24 hours, finishing in 20 hours and 6 minutes. Rope Solo Free climbing is a sport that few people know about and even fewer people do.
Draußen ist schöner… aber gewusst wie! Nach einem langen Winter raus an den Fels, das ist nicht nur für Kletterneulinge eine große Umstellung. Die beiden Wettkampfkletterinnen Helen Danco und Catrin Gorzellik geben Tipps für den Start in die Klettersaison.
Der Countdown für Olympia 2020 in Tokio läuft! Unser Kletterkader hat sich in Japan schon mal die Hallen angesehen und mit der japanischen Mannschaft trainiert. Alle News rund um den Kader und Olympia findet ihr künftig unter alpenverein.de/climbtotokyo
Cracking little featurette of the 2018 Plywood Masters indoor bouldering competition held at Boulder UK, Preston. Features many British climbing team members, seriously dirty crimps and fat slice of Lancashire wit. Awesome climbing with plenty of japes and laughs along the way.
The Neverending Story (Unendliche Geschichte) 8b+ was established by Beat Kammerlander in 1991. At that time it was the hardest multipitch route of the world. Now, over 25 years later the route has just seen 2 repetitions.
Patxi Usobiaga takes us through the process of what it was like to climb a route he had attempted 8 years ago in Oliana, Spain when he felt he was at his peak. That was before his life changed and climbing took a backseat.
When choosing a project far from home, Seb Bouin realizes the challenges associated with distance: Not only when it comes to the difficulty of the route, but also in terms of motivation, focus and personal growth. But Move 9b/9b+ in Flatanger, Norway, was the perfect challenge and he couldn’t resist. Now Seb’s fully committed, and on to what he calls the "logical next step" of his progression.
Let’s celebrate climbing and have a good time together! Listen to Adam and Jerry, two climbing legends, as they discuss climbing, and then watch the movie about the world’s first 9c.
Jernej Kruder sends Chris Sharma's test piece "Catalan witness the fitness" 8c in Cova del ocell, Spain.
After twenty years, this unclimbed problem, The Rail, Font 8b+ has been worked, worked again and finally has a first ascent from Dan Varian. 'The Rail' at Bowden Doors, Northumberland had been a project for over twenty years.
On September 3, 2017, Adam Ondra completed Silence in Norway's Flatanger Cave. He graded the route, formerly known as "Project Hard," 9c (5.15d), which would make it the hardest pitch in the world. Watch a teaser for the upcoming film above.
Just days after making the first ever flash of a 5.15a, Adam Ondra did yet another new 5.15b, which he named "Eagle 4". Here is the footage of the send and it's absolutely bonkers. At one point he makes literally a dozen hand and foot moves to just make one move of upward progress. Enjoy!
Alban Levier made the first ascent of Immortel 7C/V9 back in 2016, and now he's back with a new team and a new tour of the best rock climbing spots on the island. First up, back to Immortel to try and repeat Alban's route, a crimpy, technical highball which will require all their determination and fight to try and solve the problem.
Three of the strongest climbers in the U.K, Dave Barrans, Matt Cousins and Nathan Phillips head to the magical bouldering forest of Fontainebleau in France. Their mission? Take on some of the hardest boulders in the forest, push each other to the limits and eat lots of cheese. Simple.
One of the highlights of 2017 was Steve McClure climbing Britain's first 9b: Rainman at Malham. In November 2017, Adam Ondra paid a flying visit to the UK to speak at Kendal Film Festival.
After struggling for years with injuries, Tom Bolger is finally back on form, sending his 10-th 9a with a a rare repeat of Victima Perez in Margalefs Finestra sector.