Matt Wilder has done the third ascent of The Path, 8b+ R at Lake Louise. )The R is the degree of dangerousity for the route. X = death potental falls.) In a nice and very detailed blogspot Matt describes the ascent and in the picture you in fact see what gear he used.In trad climbing you are supposed to place the gear on lead, which was the „rule“ also when sport climbing was invented. This is one of the reasons why trad grades seems „sand-bagged“. Here is the list of the hardest trad routes in the world = 8c+.