Gabriele Moroni has done Action Directe, 9a in Frankenjura. The route was set up by Wolfgang Güllich back in 1991, inventor of the campus board for the purpose of training for this and other routes. Action Directe in Wikipedia with info on the previous 11 ascents. Originally Wolfgang suggested XI = hard 8c+ for the 11-16 move shallow finger pocket route. Gabriele is #3 in the combined ranking game. A week before Gabriele did two 8Bs and three 8As in Chironico, calling everything „soft“. Gabriele´s blogPicture of Gabriele trying the route back in 2008 by Bernardo Giménez.