by Mick Ryan The Book Festival © KMF There will be two major awards at this years Kendal Mountain Festivals (see UKClimbing.com´s report here), plus one of the most useful online presences at his website (here), climbing blog (here) and coaching blog (here), and now the hardest sport route in Scotland. Has there been any cutting edge UK climber in recent times who has been so productive and constructive on and off the rock and ice? Earlier this week (the 10th) MacLeod redpointed his project at the Anvil a huge (30m high) schist boulder in the woods on a remote peninsula on the east bank of Loch Goil (Argyll and Bute). Dave reports on Bodyswerve 8c: “The route is 25m long but the difficulties are in the first 15m. It´s 8a up to halfway and then a 9 move really sustained boulder problem. As you will seefrom the pics its really steep.It takes an hour to walk in, but it´s worth it for the lovely setting, quietude and excellent climbing. There are about 15 routes there. The crag classic is Spitfire 8a which is proving really popular (for attempts, so far only Niall McNair, Dave Redpath and myself have got up it). The big roof already has one 8b+ (Bodyblow) from me a fewmonths ago and more projects all in the top end 8s. Bodyswerve was climbed in the pouring rain as its perma-dry.” In other MacLeod (portrait) news this week he was pleased to announce that he had signed a sponsorship deal with Scarpa (www.scarpa.co.uk) whose new rock shoes he climbed Bodyswerve in.
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