Bendecrete Dyno Holds

Bendecrete, who are organising the world´s first Guiness ratified climbing event in Sheffield on April 20th, have produced a range of specialised dyno holds for use in dyno competitions. They have also built a mobile dyno board to hire out to venues wanting to organise a competition. Details of the forthcoming competition: Venue The Edge Climbing Centre John Street Bramall Lane South Yorkshire Sheffield S2 4QU Rules THE BENDCRETE DYNO COMPETITION RULES General Rules 1. Competitors must be aged 16 years or over. 2. Competitors must register to compete. 3. When the competition starts, registered competitors will be called by name to take their turn.As there is no isolation area, competitors will be expected to be within the area of the Dyno board and will therefore be permitted to watch each other. 4. Registered competitors who arrive late will start the competition at whatever height the target hold is set at when they arrive.However, once the sudden death section is completed late arrivals will not be permitted to join the competition. 5. Rock shoes/boots must be worn by all competitors. 6. Chalk bags will not be worn whilst competing. The Dyno Board 1. This will overhang by 20º. 2. The start holds will be two large handholds set level with each other and 200mm apart.Below each handhold will be a regularly spaced series of identical, positive footholds. 3. The target hold, a very large, double handed ?jug?, will be moved along a line of bolt holes set at an angle of 45º from the left hand fixed handhold. 4. The distance measured will be between the fixing bolts of the target hold and the left hand fixed hold. The Dyno 1. Competitors must hold both starting handholds, with their left hand on the left hold and their right hand on the right hold.No crossed hands will be permitted. 2. Competitors are permitted to use any configuration of footholds.However, feet must not touch the starting handholds. 3. An attempt is classed as having started as soon as both feet leave the ground.Stepping down or falling from the start holds will terminate the attempt. 4. An attempt is successful if the competitor hangs the target hold in control with both hands.The judges? shall decide whether the competitor hangs the target hold ?in control?.As a rule of thumb, two seconds should be enough.The judges? decision is final. 5. Competitors may opt to ?miss? a height, but will not be allowed to lower the target hold should they change their mind.All competitors must make a successful attempt at the final height in the sudden death stage, in order to continue to the next stage. Stage ?1? Sudden Death -All competitors must compete in this stage.Until the target height is reached, competitors shall have just one attempt at each height.Failure to hold the target hold will result in elimination. Stage ?2? Competitors who successfully complete stage ?1? will continue in stage ?2? with two attempts at each height.Failure on both attempts will result in elimination. Stage ?3? When there are 10 competitors left, each will have up to 3 attempts at each height. Failure on all three attempts will result in elimination.In the event of a tie, failures in all stages will be used to determine placings.If competitors still cannot be separated a further stage of sudden death will be used to determine placings. Practice Session and Registration (4.30 p.m. to 5.30 p.m.) The Dyno board will be available for registered climbers to practice on.Three target holds will be set at 1.5m, 1.9m, and 2.3m.Judges will be available to answer questions and register competitors during this session. Qualifying (5.30 p.m. to 6.30 p.m.) All competitors must successfully hang the target hold to qualify for the main competition.Only one attempt will be permitted at the qualifying height.This is 1.5m for women and 1.9m for men. Women?s Competition (6.30 p.m.) Sudden Death -The target hold will be gradually moved from the qualifying height to 1.65m.In order to progress to the next stage competitors must successfully hang the target hold at this height. Men?s Competition (6.30 p.m.) Sudden Death ? The process will be exactly as for the women?s competition except that the cut off height will be 2.15m. Note The distance the target hold is moved each time will vary depending on the number of competitors successfully hanging the target hold and the ease with which they achieve this.Initially the distance will probably be 100mm and will gradually reduce as competitors are eliminated. The Prizes 1st prize£500 Cash Morphix Bouldering Pad Morphix Pad Bag Morphix Rope Bag Morphix Chalk Bag Total £709.96 2nd Prize £200 Cash Morphix Bouldering Pad Morphix Chalk Bag Total £341.98 3rd Prize £100 Cash Morphix Rope Bag Morphix Chalk Bag Total £144.98 FANCY DRESS (Spot Prize) MorphixBouldering Pad £129.99 If you want any more information, contact John Hartley, the General Manager Tel: 0(44) 161 338 3046 Fax 0 (44) 161 338 7956 www.bendcrete.com