Chris Savage, 8b onsight in anger

by Mick Ryan – UKClimbing.com Zona 0, 8b Chris Savage, 26, from Bristol is having a good run on an extended climbing trip to Spain including 8b+/8c redpoints and on the 17th April an 8b onsight, Zona 0 at Siurana. Chris was the Junior British Indoor Climbing Champion in 1998 and some may remember him out climbing Chris Sharma for the first ascent of Dark Horse a V11 at Black Mountain in California. In March, climbing at Sella Wild Side, Chris redpointed two 8b+/8c´s Dosis and Espacio Tiempo, and two 8b+´s Oceano and Septiembre. He then moved to Siurana where he had one very memorable day. Chris takes up the story “I had been working on Migranya 8b for a few days and wasn´t really enjoying the route as the pockets are so sharp. However, it started raining and Migranya is one of the few routes you can try in the rain. I pulled through the crux feeling pretty strong then on the most important clip my loyal belayer had a little trouble giving me enough slack to clip. I managed to hold on long enough for her to sort out the knot in the rope. I got a bit worked up and I think this is what pulled me through the upper crux! Having redpointed Migranya the rain stopped and I decided to just have a little play on Zona 0 another 8b (“40m realy nice climbing with a slapy crux in an awesome posision” says Chris on his 8a.nu scorecard). I somehow managed to slap my way through the crux and onsight the route. My best day of climbing to date.” We´ll no doubt hear more from Chris as he is on a year-long climbing trip.

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