Italian climber Gabriele Moroni and friends are hard at work developing a new crag close to the city of Trento in the Italian Dolomites. Gabri describes it as an incredible wall of black and white limestone with 6 routes 8c or more that are still projects. I climbed two 8c's and one 8b+, and another friend climbed another 8b+. Now I'm super syked for this 9a project I bolted. This project is about 28 meters, pretty steep and has many pinches. it's a 10 meters 7c/c+ to a 10 move 7C+/8A boulder then a good but awkward rest with a footjam in a big pocket, then 8A boulder no doubt. And of course 100% natural no sika! It would be a great achievement for me to have bolted and be the first to send an all natural route of this difficulty. Unique in italy!*Fingers crossed!

Gabriele Moroni on La Gabi, 8cBjörn Pohl – UKC, Oct 2010© Moroni coll.

*Apparently that's not entirely true. We got an email from a reader: „I just read the news about Gabri's new crag. Just want to say that all the routes that we bolted in the Bronx, Domusnovas (For example Marina super star, 9a+/b, and Campo con corvi, 9a) are all natural, and, like they, ALL the crag's routes.“Thanks for letting us know!Gabriele Moroni is sponsored by E9, Five Ten and Metolius Diesen Artikel inkl. Bilder auf UKClimbing.com anschauen