Repeat of Memento 8c+The Austrian Schwaiger brothers state on their website that they are ?maybe the world?s strongest bouldering team? and even though they may not be very well known in the UK their collection of hard sends is incredibly impressive. Bernard Schwaiger has just added the 2nd ascent of Memento (Font 8c/8c+ or V15/V16) to his ticklist. Memento was first climbed by Bernd Zangerl (Aus) and is featured in the climbing DVD of the same name. 7 moves long up a very steep (c.45 degrees) overhang, it features a last move which is a huge all out dyno to a deadpoint all from very poor crimps. In all it took Bernard 7 trips to repeat the problem.
|The Crux dyno on Memento. Photo Schwaigerbrothers.com|
Source: Schwaigerbrothers.com>> & kairn.com Wide Awake Down UnderWhile on the subject of big bouldering numbers, this time on the other side of the world, Chris Webb Parsons (Aus) has just repeated Sleepy Rave (8c/V15) in Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians, Australia.Sleepy Rave is the link up of 3 problems in the cave – Sleepy Hollow, V12 into Cave Man, V9 into Dead Can?t Dance, V11 – and was first climbed by Dai Koyamanda (Jpn) in 2004.If Sleepy Rave wasn?t enough of a linkup, Dai then added Xtreme Cool, V9 into it to give The Wheel Of Life (8c+/V16), a 60 move problem that could possibly be better described as a route as it?s so long. Either way, its one of the hardest on the planet. Chris has another week in the Grampians so an ascent of the Wheel might not be far off? Source: Chris Parson blog & 8a.nu Red Bull Bouldering Comp A few weeks ago we reported on the upcoming Red Bull bouldering competition (news report here>>) in Vienna and the fact that they where going to be using real rock from around the world for the outdoor comp. The competiton took place last weekend and indeed real rock was used (that must have been expensive to import). Climbers competing included David Lama, Kilian Fischuber, Natalija Gros and Bernd Zangerl with the overall ´winners´ being Anna Stohr and Cody Roth. A report with pics can be found on the Mammut news website which explains the concept behind the event. Red Bull obviously put a lot of money into this so it will be interesting to see if it will be repeated again in the future.