Malc Smith climbs Unjustified 8c – Malham

by Jack Geldard – Editor – UKC Unjustifed (8c) at Malham is a rightwards extension from Something Stupid (7b) and was first climbed in 1992 by Nic Sellars.Nic used a sika hold and named the route Justified and Ancient.In 1993 Tony Mitchell ´The Climbing Doctor´ eliminated the sika hold, renaming the route Unjustifed. Malcolm Smith has had a return to sport climbing recently with ascents of hard routes in Scotland in 2007.He has just climbed Unjustified and says: “Unjustified was one of the routes in Yorkshire I wanted to clean up, having not climbed it back in the day. Once I sorted a sequence and got the conditions it came together fast. It´s not the hardest 8c I´ve done, it´s probably a little easier than True North at Kilnsey, but it´s certainly one of the best. I like routes I can do quickly but if I want to climb a 9a in Yorkshire I´ll need to get ready for a siege.” Malcolm made the first ascent of Transform, another 8c extension on the Malham catwalk in 2000. If Malcolm does set his sights on a Yorkshire 9a we wish him the best of luck.

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