Malcolm Smith repeats Careless Torque – as Fawcett watches

by Charles Arthur & Justin Critchlow Careless Torque has had a definite repeat in front of indubitable witnesses, among them the FA, Big Ron.The 7a boulder problem, on the Not To Be Taken Away boulder at Stanage Plantation, is rumoured to have been done by John Dunne. But on Thurs 20th, Malcolm Smith did it as Justin (Critchlow) relates:”He was trying it ground-up but did not want to do the top move. He then toproped it a few times, then did it. He was doing the first move (crux) every time and making it look 6a and not 7a. He said it was 8a+ to get standing on the arete.”Well done . . he did it in front of Ben and Jerry, Ron Fawcett was there and Alan Williams plus a few others…”He then went on to do the Joker on his 6th go. and nearly doing Ace in a few goes! This man is unstoppable. . “Ron, of course, practised for the top move worries by climbing NTBTA (E2 6a, slightly more amenable) and jumping from increasing heights to convince himself of the landing.You don´t remember? Well, it was 1987.

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