Dave MacLeod has climbed a new E10 on Hell´s Lum in the Cairngorms. To Hell & Back (E10 6c) is the line that he had aimed to climb for BBC cameras the weekend previously but due to the bad weather the whole show had to be cancelled (see news story here>>) MacLeod has described the ascent as the ´scariest day of my life´ and that ´falling off from the crux or above would have meant death´. You can get a full account on his blog which is certainly worth reading for his personal reflection of the lead. Dave dug deep both mentally and physical for this route and feels that ´this route overstepped the red line..not in terms of personal danger, just in terms of the cost of dealing with the danger´. The ascent was filmed by ´The Great Climb´ team and those in Scotland can expect to see a programme on the route in the next 5-6 weeks on the BBC. The first 35m crux pitch has poor skyhooks and RPs for protection and features slopers, crimps and a dyno all with the prospect of a ground fall. On the ascent Dave actually screamed twice as the reality of the situation dawned on him. The 2nd 45m pitch goes at a more amendable E5.
|Topo of To Hell & Back E10, 6c on Hells Lum|
The Hot Aches team where involved in the filming and you can read a very interesting account of the climb on the Hot Aches blog. As a sidenote, Dave and his wife Claire made it back to the Coire an t´ Sneachdha car park after midnight after walking out with 4 ropes and 2 racks. Life of a professional climber is certainly not glamourous. Source: Dave MacLeod Blog