Carl Ryan reports on new route activity in Pembroke and Exmoor… Feersum Endjinn E6 6b **Stennis Ford Start at a hanging belay at the very bottom of the Excession crackline. Move left and up into the LW diagonal flakeline past a hard move to better holds. Step R into the hanging corner and up to the roof. Up the disappearing crackline into hard moves above until a delicate step R gains a jug near the top of Excession. Finish up this. A great route. First ascent by Paul Twomey & Mike Weeks On 26.08.02 Trevor Massiah leading on first ascent of this new route ´Bosh & Pecs´ E5 6a.at Bosherston Head East Face and exiting onto the headwall. The route was seconded by Alun Richardson. The route climbs the left wall out of the prominent big cave in the East Face and then goes directly up the headwall above to finish on some desperate holds. Paul Twomey starting up the committing crux of ´Inversions´ E7 6b on the first ascent at Stennis Ford Pembrokeshire. ´There were some very airy moments for Paul to when a couple of the tiny brittle footholds snapped off but he kept a cool head and went on to succeed on it. Paul stated the gear was adequate but he didn´t fancy putting that to the test in an actual fall from the crux…´ Martin Crocker in an outrageous situation making the first ascent of ´He Sang In His Chains Like The Sea´ E6 6b. Here belayed by Liam Connick, Martin is approaching the loose crux block on this desperate route. The route is at Little Hangman´s Crag on the Exmoor Coast on Sat 10th Aug 2002 with Liam Connick. This outrageous route is typical Crocker fayre. It is a voyage ´Susie´s Plot´ style, through some really airy roofs high above an awesome black cave. The crux involves taking hold of and passing a ´fridge freezer´ sized perched, creaky block, jammed high in the apex of the cave roof. Once committed, retreat is virtually impossible beyond the perched block and not recommended! The route then continues through further projecting roofs above before breaking out on to the headwall and slab directly above to finish. All photos Carl Ryan. Many thanks to Carl for providing this report.
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