Svolvaer Goat, Norway – Now De-horned

by Chris Craggs the Svolvaer Goat Above the town of Svolvaer is one of Norway´s most enigmatic and sought after summits – the Svolvaer Goat, originally named because of the two huge boulders that made up the ´horns,´ the higher of the two being the actual highest point. The first ascent of the Goat in 1910 was a seminal ascent in Norwegian climbing, finished at 11 at nightthe 1910 Route is still worth Hard Severe (5.6) and is a superb climb. The spectacular and scary jump between the horns was first done by Arne Randers Heen in about 1930 and it became de rigour for any climber to leap the hugely exposed gap – it even made the front cover of the classic 1992 Ed Webster guide to the climbing in Lofoten. See the leap here News from Thorbjorn Enevold, a guide who runs the Nord Norske Klatreskole – the centre for climbing on the island is not good though “Latest news about the goat is most important. The landing platform on the Lillehorn, where you normally land, (if you have not climbed down), has fallen down this winter. Now the leap is a true jump, with a much smaller place to land. The climb itself, up from the shoulder are also more difficult now. And last, but not least, the traverse on the 1910 Route has also changed. The jump has completely changed. We will not do the jump with normal tourists anymore.” More images at: chriscraggs.blogspot.com

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