Turner & McAleese New Patagonia Route

´The Good, The Bad and the Ugly!´ 800m A3, 5.10 (not summited)Stu McAleese and Mike ´Twid´ Turner have climbed a new line on the previously un-climbed South Face of The South Tower of Paine in Patagonia. It took them 15 days to reach the top of the rock wall. With 5 days left they thought the 300m of easy snow and rock, to the summit, was in the bag. However 5 days of horrendous weather in a storm prevented them from successfully reaching the summit. They had a harrowing descent in a seriously nasty storm. Neither had seen such strong winds before, experiencing 200kmph gusts. While retreating both climbers were left, at times, flying horizontally from anchors! To abseil they had to pull themselves down the ropes!They climbed 15 pitches, mostly 50-60m long. Many were difficult aid pitches, with plenty of hooking, linked hanging corners. They climbed in capsule style. While climbing the route they didn´t have a single nice day, with constant strong winds, temperatures well below freezing and daily snow storms. Twid comments that is was ´Just like climbing on bad days in Scotland every day´ – which both members have plenty of experience of. The weather was far worse than on any of the other previous 5 trips the climbers had experienced in the area. Both climbers were very happy with the climb and very content to escape alive!

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