Im zweiten Teil der kleinen Videoserie von Adam Ondras erstem Aufenthalt in Fontainebleau trifft sich Adam mit Mr. Fontainebleau himself: Jacky Godoffe. Interessant finde ich dabei, dass Adam ca. 20 Versuche an dem ersten 8a Boulderproblem überhaupt in Bleau benötigte, bevor er es durchsteigen konnte. Dieses stammt aus dem Jahr 1984 (!) und wurde von eben jenem Jacky Godoffe erstbegangen. Ein echter Wahnsinn...
Black Diamond athlete Adam Ondra has recently focused his energies to the world of bouldering, and the results have been stunning. This December, fresh off his second ascent of Gioia in Italy (at 8C+, one of the hardest boulder problems in the world), Adam set off for his first-ever visit to the iconic boulders of Fontainebleau, France.
We sent videographer Alvi Pakarinen down to Font to film Adam during his five-day trip, and he was on the scene for a slew of hard sends by Adam, including his stunning flash of Gekko Assis (8b+), one of the hardest flashes in history, on his last day in the forest.
Here is Video #2 of the three-part series Alvi edited together for us of Adam's trip, and follows Adam as he boulders with one of the forest's true maestros, Jacky Godoffe (who is also a BD athlete). Jacky took Adam on a proper tour of some classics, including La Merveille (8A+) and C'etait Demain (8A, the first of its grade in the forest and FA'd by Jacky).
If you missed Video #1, watch it here: vimeo.com/35171521
Stay tuned for Video #3 (which has the Gekko Assis flash footage).
Adam wrote the following about the moments captured in Video #2:
"We went to Bas Cuvier parking where we had a meeting with the man of the forest: Jacky Godoffe. It was very inspiring to see him bouldering, being as psyched as ever even after so many years in the forest. I wanted to do some real classic and that is definitely La Merveille (8A). This is amazing prow with the high, but safe crux on the top. Jacky gave me some good beta and I flashed it! Funny thing was that when I latched the lip, I got just slopper a couple centimeters below the real jug and hung there for a second, having no clue what to do or if I was about to fall. From the ground, I might have seemed pretty relaxed and I heard Jacky as a spotter saying OK and going away. In that moment I squealed a desperate „No!“ and I felt that my spotter returned and I could stabilize myself again to do a final bump into the real jug. The end of the day was spent by trying C'etait Demain, the first 8A in the forest in 1984 and also established by Jacky. This was a hard one, and I spent about 20 tries on it, trying and trying again and getting desperately close to doing these two crux moves. Jacky tried with me and we had a plenty of fun, laughing at the precision and coordination this problem requires. In the end, I made it up this blank overhanging wall."