New Routes in Krygzstan from British team This summer saw an outstanding strong team of British climbers head out to the Ak-Su valley in Krygzstan. The Ak Su region is renowned for its Yosemite style granite peaks and towers soaring up to 5000 metres from the valley bottom at 2800 metres. Many big wall aid and free routes exist, some up to 40 pitches in length, but with plenty of scope for new routes at all grades.
|The Russian Tower (4240m), Ak-Su Valley. Photo: Graham Desroy|
Spending 6 weeks in the valley, the team put up 3 new routes and repeated many of the classics. Of the new routes: Andy Scott and Sion Brocklehurst made a fine A4 aid route up the North Face of Central Pyramid (spending 8 days to climb the 20 pitches), Graham and Sion then put up a 8 pitch route on the hanging arête of Kotin?s lower pinnacle around the grade of E3/4 5c, whilst Jon ´Hobbit´ Ratcliffe and Andy Scott climbed the big corner on the same pinnacle at a similar grade. You can read more and see pictures at DMM Climbing website>> DMM Bouldering While checking out the above link to DMM, you should also view the excellent short film DMM Bouldering. Made, featuring and put together by Ben Bransby it´s one of the better climbing shorts on the internet. For those who enjoy the gritstone and bouldering in winter, it´ll get those palms sweating for the colder temps shortly around the corner. You can also view the video on YouTube here>> Chris Sharma Interview The most publicized, most filmed and certainly most marketable climber of the current generation, Chris Sharma, has given a rare interview for Climbing Magazine. You can read it all online at climbing.com. With the release of King Lines DVD, Sharma chats about his DWS in Mallorca, new projects and his travel exploits. Below is a short excerpt: “When you?re younger, you never think about the day when you might not be as strong. I still feel like I have potential. I?m 26 now and I?ve started realizing that the time is finite. I?m more motivated now to raise the bar on my personal level. To realize my potential as a climber.” See King Lines trailer at bigupproductions.com>>