[VIDEO] Roland Hemetzberger Sends „Delirium“ (8c)

After battling tricky weather and challenging rock, Black Diamond Ambassador Roland Hemetzberger finally sent "Delirium", a multi-pitch 8c in Austria's Kaiser Mountains.

Roland Hemetzberger Text

Delirium is located in the Kaiser range of Austria. This range is in the northern beginning of the Alps and has been very popular among climbers for over 100 years. Legendary climbers like Herman Buhl and Hans Dülfer put up many classic lines here, and the history of the place makes it even more special. For example, near Delirium, there is another route called Pumprisse, which was the first-ever 7 on the UIAA scale and was first ascended by Rheinard Karl and Helmut Kiene in 1977.

I have been climbing in this area for several years. Three years ago, I freed Scheffler/Siegert (8a+ / 6/A2 ), an old aid climbing line from the early ’60s, protected just with pegs and traditional gear. While trying this route, I discovered to the right a super steep, blank wall without any routes. A year later, I came back with some friends, and we started to establish the first meters of a new route. Last year, we finished the route in three days. All the establishing was made ground up and in the best style we were able to.

But due to very bad conditions last year, it was impossible to redpoint the whole route. This year the weather was very good and the whole line was dry for a longer period. I was lucky to send it in one day after four days of finding the right sequence for the crux. The route was a great adventure because after the four overhanging pitches, the line changes to alpine terrain, and you have to find your way through another four clean pitches in an awesome setting. It was a day I will never forget.