Bouldering Final Women – Rock Master 2010

It all boiled down to the final problem. This has never been truer than in the grand female bouldering final. It went down to the wire, on the 4th and last problem, and it was an impeccable, superb Anna Stöhr who came up trumps.It comes as no surprise that the Austrian has won the bouldering event here in Arco three times previously, and today proved to be a thrilling head-to-head against the strong Ukranian Olga Shalagina and the magnificent Japanese Akiyo Noguchi, who finished 2nd and 3rd respectively.

But it was also a head-to-head against Russian Olga Bibik who just missed out on not only the podium, but also overall victory. Yes because all four athletes sent 2 of the 4 problems, and were only separated by the number of attempts needed.Stöhr's competition was magnificent and victory came after an impressive comeback, since while she failed on problems #1 and #2, Olga Bibik started with all guns blazing, sending problem #1 – the only athlete to manage this feat.

This was a true lesson of balance, flexibility and total concentration, so much so that the Russian asked the spectators for silence… fantastic. Bibik was the one to watch out for on problem #2 with her top 4th go. Only Olga Shalagina, another veteran of the world cup circuit did better than her by topping out 2nd go.All the others failed to top out. But then came problem #3 and the tides turned. Bibik failed to make headway, Stöhr on the other hand waltzed up first attempt, just like Shalagina. This problem was also sent by Noguchi (2nd attempt) and Chloé Graftiaux (3 attempt), while Mina Markovic from Slovenia remained empty handed.

This all paved the way for the grand finale. The last problem required pure power but also a great dose of flexibility and technique to stick the final moves and reach the top. Excellent footwork was needed to place them high into a “terrible compression”, while finding just the right position to balance the body. Neither Graftiaux nor Shalagina nor Markovic managed to solve the riddle.

Above all though, nor did Bibik, who also injured her shoulder during one of the numerous attempts to stick the starting dyno. At this point Stöhr had the chance for victory, if she sent the problem first go she'd win.With in-born class Stöhr did just this, the “game” was solved with disarming ease. It was now Noguchi's turn to battle for a podium position and the Japanese champion didn't wait to be asked twice. After asking for the crowd's support she sent the problem 3rd go, winning bronze. Beautiful!

Speed – Rock Master 2010

The first day of the Rock Master concluded with the lightening fast sprinters. World class lightening strikes in the form of Czech climber Libor Hroza in the men's comp, and Cuilian He from China in the women's event. In the final duel, the one which decided the winner, Hroza beat Russian counterpart Stanislav Kokorin in 6″71. While in the battle for third place Qixin Zhong won bronze in 7″29, beating his teammate Ning Zhang who finished in 11'56.

In the women's final He gave her adversaries no hope of victory, and Olga Morozkina topped out in 11″75, compared to He's 10″96. The battle for third and fourth place was won by Lucelia Blanco from Venezuela who finished in 11″90 while Edyta Ropek didn't conclude her race after slipping on her way up. Italy's colours were defended by Arco local Sara Morandi who not only placed 8th but also set a new Italian record.

Duel – Rock Master 2010

The last waltz of Rock Master 2010, which acted as the prologue to the IFSC World Championship 2011 in Arco, was all about the great Lead Duel. A final swing, one against the other, at full speed with the magnificent 8 +8 finalists of the Rock Master Lead. The excruciating race up the massive Climbing Stadium wall was won by a lightening fast Adam Ondra, while the women's event was won by another youngster, Katharina Posch from Austria, one of the best surprises of this Rock Master.

In the battle for first place Ondra beat Sean McColl from Canada, who won silver, while in the duel for bronze Jakob Schubert from Austria beat Frenchman Romain Desgranges. Katharina Posch won gold by beating the Korean Jain Kim, while Alexandra Eyer from Switzerland beat Alizée Dufraisse in the battle for third place. This is how the special 2010 Rock Master came to an end.It proved to be an impressive dress rehearsal for next year's World Championship. The date for Arco is 15 to 24 July 2011, for 9 days of world-class climbing!

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überwww.arco2011.it
QuellePlanetMountain, Fotos: Giulio Malfer