Great Escape Repeat

Following on from the news story (and discussion) regarding the first ascent of The Great Escape on Arran, we have some details on the repeat ascent by Dave MacLeod. Dave climbed the route, with only the first pitch differing from Dunne´s chosen line. MacLeod was convinced the line had not yet been climbed by the presence of a fixed line still stashed at the top of the route, and the fact that the top (E7 6b) pitch was not fully cleaned, and had no chalk on it. After pre-practice, MacLeod climbed the line on the 28th and considered it to be a *** E8 6c: “The route is right up there in terms of quality with the very best routes in the country such as Requiem or Femme Fatale. Undercutting the soaring giant pincer after doing the crux slab is sensational, and summoning the courage to lead the death top pitch, straight after a 45 metre E8 pitch is a great experience.” MacLeod fully acknowledges Dunne´s first ascent, and adds “John is lucky he didn´t leave it one more week like I did!”

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