Kevin Jorgeson – New Ultra Highball

by Jack Geldard – Editor – UKC Kevin Jorgeson has climbed the first ascent of Ambrosia on the Grandpa Peabody boulder in The Buttermilks, Bishop, Califonia. Described as a V11 boulder problem in to a 5.13a (F7c+) solo, this stunning line has been tried by several climbers over the years. British climber George Ullrich soloed the upper section of the route last year, after bypassing the lower technical crux with a ladder. Film maker Dave Gill, who filmed George´s ascent described the route: "George tried for a day or so to figure out the bottom but snapped a hold off. The bottom half is definitely the technical crux, the holds areincredibly small. Up to about 20ft the landing is reasonable withspotters, above that you´re climbing above a sloping boulder whichwouldn´t be a nice prospect at all. The rock on that face is quitebrittle. It looks incredible though, suprised it´s taken this long. It´s oneof the most obvious lines on the drive to The Buttermilks. It must be hard!" In the full report (with photos) on the BigUp Blog, there is some detail about the grade: "He hasn´t given it a grade exactly, because it´s not obvious whether it should be a route grade or a boulder grade, or (god forbid) an E grade, or what. If it´s a boulder problem, then he thinks the hardest moves are only V11, but that doesn´t even begin to describe the challenge. If it´s a route, then he thinks 5.14a, but that suggests it should be climbed on a rope, which isn´t quite right either… so whatever. It´s rad." Thanks go to BigUp for the image, which is a still shot from a forthcoming DVD – watch this space