XX Rock Master in Arco steht schon in der Startblöcken
14 men and 10 women, currently all the biggest names in sports climbing competitions, will compete for Rock Master no. 20. During their two day test of the oldest and most noble sports climbing competition on the shores of Lake Garda they will be joined by the strongest boulderers in the world, battling it out for the VIIth Sint Roc Bouldering Contest, and the world's fastest vertical sprinters who will check in, albeit briefly, at the Speed contest.
The roped competition (the Rock Master) in Arco's Climbing Stadium arena will be spearheaded by Flavio Crespi, currently the leader of both the World Cup 2006 and the continuously updated world ranking. The anticipation is fever-pitch: no Italian has ever won the climbing Trophy of Trophies. And it's unsurprising therefore that immediately after his 2005 World Cup victory (another first for Italy) the 26 year old from Varese stated the Rock Master as his next objective and dream. This dream has never seemed more real than during this season, even though it's easy to guess that the battle will be tense right up to the final hold: climbing's equivalent of Wimbledon is spectacular because of its uncertainties, and the race for gold is ruthless.
The Italian champion will test his mettle against the Spanish team led by Ramon Julian Puigblanque, winner in 2005, who is joined by the extremely strong Patxi Usobiaga and the 21 year old emerging Eduard Marin Garcia. Talking of young climbers, expectations are high for the 16 year old David Lama from Austria who, during his senior debut, has astounded all with a victory and a second place in the 2006 World Cup. The list of new talent continues with the recently crowned Junior World Champion, 19 year old Sean McColl from Canada, and 17 year old Magnus Midtbo from Norway. All other 2006 revelations will be there, too, such as 21 year old Jorg Verhoeven from Holland who exploded on the world stage last year. 20 year old Daniel Winkler from Switzerland will compete, on form after his second place in the World Cup in Kuala Lampur, as will Timo Preussler from Germany, the winner of this final stage in Malasyia.
The XX Rock Master will be marked by this generation change, but the new vogue of climbers will be contrasted by a series of erxperienced veterans. First and foremost by 24 year old World Champion Tomas Mrazek. He will be followed by the warrior of a thousand battles, 30 year old Christian Bindhammer from Germany (winner in Arco 2001 ex aequo with Mrazek and the “legendary” Hirayama), 28 year old Sylvain Millet from France (currently 7th in the world ranking) and dulcis in fundo, 34 year old Luca Zardini from Italy: a true example of class applied to climbing.
Class certainly isn't something Angela Eiter from Austria is lacking. Despite being just 20 years young the undisputed queen in the world ranking has amassed an extraordinary array of victories, including the World Championship and three straight World Cup and Rock Master victories in a row. 2006 could be “poker” year for unbeatable Eiter and this result would bring her to just a stone's throw from the record 5 victories set by legendary Lynn Hill, the absolute star in world climbing. Eiter's road to glory will be made difficult by another true champion, Sandrine Levet from France, who this year has decided to concentrate on lead competitions only. Things look good for the bouldering champion, who in Kuala Lumpur managed to interrupt the young Austrian's series of World Cup victories. Levet's efforts to usurp the throne will of course be aided by the best of the best. These include Italian champion Jenny Lavarda, Maja Vidmar and Martina Cufar from Slovenia, Barbara Bacher and Katharina Saurwein from Austria, Chloe' Graftiaux from Belgium, Emily Harrington from the USA and, last but by no means least, the 16 year old French promise Charlotte Durif.
The great competition kicks off on Saturday 2 September at 14.00 and will continue non-stop until Sunday evening. But take note! The appointment for this great climbing celebration begins on Friday evening, at 20.30, with the first edition of the “Arco Rock Legends” during which the following prizes will be awarded: the Salewa Rock Award (for the climber who distinguished him/herself most at the crag, both for their style and how they influenced sports climbing) and the La Sportiva Competition Award (for the athlete who distinguished him/herself most in the competition season 2004/05). All those nominated by the pool of international magazines will be there: Daniel Andrada, Josune Bereziartu, Yuji Hirayama, Chris Sharma and Maurizio “Manolo” Zanolla for the Salewa Rock Award whilst Flavio Crespi, Angela Eiter and Tomas Mrazek are in the running for the La Sportiva Competition Award. It's as if to say: sports climbing galore at Arco from Friday 1 to Sunday 3 September!
Flavio Crespi (ITA)
Jorg Verhoeven (NED)
Ramon Julian Puigblanque (ESP)
Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
Patxi Usobiaga (ESP)
Sylvain Millet (FRA)
Daniel Winkler (SUI)
Eduard Marin Garcia (ESP)
David Lama (AUT)
Timo Preussler (GER)
Christian Bindhammer (GER)
Luca Zardini (ITA)
Magnus Midtboe (NOR)
Sean McColl (CAN)
Angela Eiter (AUT)
Maja Vidmar (SLO)
Sandrine Levet (FRA)
Barbara Bacher (AUT)
Jenny Lavarda (ITA)
Charlotte Durif (FRA)
Katharina Saurwein (AUT)
Martina Cufar (SLO)
Chloe’ Graftiaux (BEL)
Emily Harrington (USA)
Killian Fischuber (AUT)
Loic Gaidioz (FRA)
Tomasz Oleksy (POL)
Matthias Muller (SUI)
Michel Caminati (ITA)
Lukas Preti (ITA)
Nalle Hukkataival (FIN)
Daniel Andrada (SPA)
Olga Bibik (RUS)
Melanie Son (FRA)
Anna Sthor (AUT)
Julia Abramtchuk (RUS)
Anja Hoddan (SWE)
Helena Lipeska (CZE)
Olga Shalagina (UKR)
Eugeny Vaytsekhovsky (RUS)
Serguey Synitsyn (RUS)
Alexandre Peshekhonov (RUS)
Tomasz Oleksy (POL)
Libor Hroza (CZE)
Rock Master Trophy 2006 – XX Edition
The classic and historical Trophy dedicated to those “Difficulty” athletes who make stamina and reaching the highest point possible an art.
when: Saturday 2 and Sunday 3 September 2005
where: Climbing Stadium Arco, 18m high, 15m overhanging
who: 10 climbers in the men's category and 10 in the men's category, based on the continuously updated Worldranking, or, put in other words, the strongest climbers in the world in this discipline.
formula: this classic difficulty competition takes place over a two-day period: Saturday's on-sight and Sunday's after work redpoint. The points (ie height) are added to create the final results.
winners Rock Master 2005: Ramòn Julien Puigblanque (ESP) – Angela Eiter (AUT)
route setters: Leonardo Di Marino and Donato Lella
Ennio Lattisi Trophy 2006 – “The Duel”
The emotional head-to-head challenge against the best 4 of the Rock Master Trophy
when: Sunday 3/09
where: Climbing Stadium
who: the top 4 of the final results (men and women) of the Rock Master.
formula: the top 4 of the final results Rock Master compete in a head-to-head duel on two identical parallel routes. The highest wins, if both reach the same point then the fastest wins. The winners of the first round (1st vs 3rd, 2nd vs 4th) compete in the final for the Trophy.
winners Lattisi Trophy2005: Alexandre Chabot (FRA) – Angela Eiter (AUT)
route setters: Leonardo Di Marino and Donato Lella
Sint Roc Bouldering Contest VII edition
The spectacle of the short and intense vertical enigma: unheard of climbing difficulties.
when: Saturday 2 September (22,00) women's competition – Sunday 3 September (14,00) men's competition.
where: Climbing Stadium Arco, on a series of specially created boulders
formula: 4 boulder problems can be worked prior to the competition. Each problem eliminates the worst competitor, resulting in 2 or 3 athletes competing on the final fourth boulder problem.
athletes: 8-10 boulderers for both the male and female categories, by invitation only.
route setter: Jacky Godoffe
winners Sint Roc Bouldering Contest 2005: Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) – Mélanie Son (FRA)
Speed competitioon – VII edition
The competition for supersonic climbers: the fastest sprinters in the world showdown at the Climbing Stadium to break the vertical soundbarrier.
when: Saturday 2 September (start 20,00)
where: Climbing Stadium Arco, central wall
formula: Men’s head to head, sudden death competition on two identical, parallel routes. The athletes are allowed to try the route for 30 minutes beforehand.
athletes: the best 10 sprinters in the world.
route setter: Jacky Godoffe
winner 2005: Tomasz Oleksy (POL)
competition record: Tomasz Oleksy 10:60 (2005)
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