8c+/9a by Richard Simpson

On Moon Climbing you can read all about Rich Simpson´s latest adventures in Siurana, Spain. So far he´s flashed the odd 8a+ and 8b and managed to send the long standing project A Muerte: “The route I climbed is about 20 metres long. It starts with a nasty one finger pocket, on a wall that overhangs about 25 degrees. You climb 10 long moves on pockets up to a bulge then straight into a very very long move to the side from a slopey, shit 2 finger pocket. This leads into another 2 finger pocket which then joins El membre, 8c. The joining point is at the bouldery 8c´s crux, from there you make 3 long moves on pockets, up to a small sharp edge, and a sketchy, slappy rock over to a positive undercut. Then climb a techniqual fingery wall, which is very easy to slipoff. You must use 2 very small edges, get your feet really high and slap to a sloper with you heart hanging on the line. A terrifying final move, thankfully I got out of bed on my lucky side that day. From there, some pleasant easy climbing to the top. Yippeee. The route is super sustained. The problem for me was that the 5 move crux sequence was about 8A+ alone, and you must climb a very athletic 8b to get there with no rest whatsoever. It is essential to have plenty of power in reserve for the crux otherwise you don´t stand a chance. But the start quickly saps your power, even when you climb it quickly. However, the style of climbing required suits me very well indeed. Similar to what is required to climb Action Directe. Kill 2 birds comes to mind. The line was bolted about 10 years ago, and has seen off substantial efforts from Dani Andrada and has also been tried by Ramonet Julian, Iker Pou and possibly Edu marin, all 9A climbers.”