by Mick Ryan – UKClimbing.com Al Phizacklea (photo) who fell soloing a few weeks ago at Wallowbarrow Crag and sustained a smashed talus bone (now nicely screwed up and on the mend) took the chair last night at the BMCLakes Area Meeting at Staveley (Hawkshead Brewery). Al does a great no nonsense job and the meeting, as always, progressed smoothly. The meeting was attended by 25 local climbers and included the BMC´s Dan Middleton – Technical Officer and Martin Kocsis – Volunteers´ Officer. Newsletter: Good work all agreed. The latest can be downloaded here. Access: Nothing major to report. Peregrines are nesting at Raven Crag, Thirlmere. Check the BMC Regional Access Database (RAD) for current updates Bolt Workshop (and replacement pegs on mountain crags): Dan Robinson of Kendal who is coordinating the re-equipping of the areas´ sport routes gave a short presentation on progress so far which included a bolting workshop at Scout Scar run by Dan Middleton two weeks ago (this work is being completed, and Scout is worth a look). Ron Kenyon gave an update on finances which include generous donations from the West Cumbria Mountaineering Club and the Fell and Rock Climbing Club. A power drill has been bought; bolts are being purchased from James Titt in Germany (www.climbargolis.com). Work will proceed soon at Thrang Quarry, St. Bees, Humphrey Head, Hodge Close and Millside Scar. Stainless steel pegs are also being purchased for the replacement of insitu pegs on mountain routes. All these developments are being driven by local climbers facilitated by the BMC. If you would like to make a donation please email Dan Robinson (dan at real-adventure.co.uk) Lakes Festival of Climbing: To be held at June 13th – 15th in the Duddon Valley. Everything going smoothly and a decent turnout is being expected. Full details at www.lakesfestivalofclimbing.co.uk Thievery in the Lakes: Watch your stuff. Rucksacks have been stolen from Black Crag, Borrowdale and Castle Rock, Thirlmere. More details at this forum thread. Abseil Chains in the Lakes: See the discussion Abseil chains in Lakes at UKClimbing.com for details. Stephen Reid reiterated his comments from the UKC thread, and also sent a message from Doug Scottthat there was concern that installing metal chains at established abseil points at some Lakes crags may lead to a proliferation of fixed gear on routes. Concern was voiced that this issue was being driven by the BMC. This is not the case. It is a national issue but being driven by local climbers. The point was made that in the world of climbing often a consensus is not achieved by discussion but by action or inaction. No conclusion was reached. The beer and butties were good. But no chips again, unless you use the American term for crisps. There was a surplus of butties. I´m having them for my lunch. If would like to share some, pop by the UKClimbing.com Ambleside office at 1.30pm. PHOTOS: Al Phizacklea Dan Robinson Abseil Chain Discussion Ron Kenyon Stainless Steel Pegs Stephen Reid
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