Birkett, McClure, Simpson and Parry on limestone

by Mick Ryan Ilam Rock In the Peak Steve McClure has snagged an old project at Dovedale´s Ilam Rock between Eye of the Tiger and Gladiator. Steve reports, “It starts up Eye of the Tiger then goesstraight up to join Gladiator for a few moves then swings back outright over the bulge to end at double bolt belay. Three pegs and good small wires protect.” He flashed it after a look on abseil and offers the grade of E6 6c. Up north in Yorkshire Dave Birkett thought he´d have a quick play on Mandela 8b, the huge capping roof at Kilnsey Crag first aided by Ron Mosley in 1957 and freeclimbed by Mark Leach in 1988. He nearly ended up doing it first day and finding it in his own words as “atmospheric and not like a sport climb”. He got it yesterday. It has only had a handful of reported ascents.On the North Buttress of Kilnsey Gareth Parry added a link up: Full Tilt into Urgent Action, calling it Full Action and offering a grade of 8b. At the Hollywood Bowl near Giggleswick Rich Simpson has had a look at two Steve Dunning routes reported at UKClimbing earlier in the month (news), Angel Eyes 8b+ and Tonto (ungraded) which Rich after a look, thinks maybe in the 8c/8c+ range although he has yet to go for the redpoint.

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