Climbing Roundup

Last week we asked whether Kilian Fischhuber´s ascent, the 8th repeat, of Action Directe in Frankenjura was really newsworthy The ensuing debate over on UKBouldering was mixed, the overall feeling that yes it was newsworthy if only because of the fame and notoriety of the route and the long list of strong climbers who have tried and failed on it. As part of the report we stated that Action Directe was the second most repeated f9a in the world after Kinematix at Gorges Du Loup in France which had, at that time, received 9 repeats. Well, Gianni Duregato has just made the 10th repeat. However, it is being suggested on, a strong voice in the world of sport climbing and route grades, that the route is perhaps over graded. If this becomes consensus then it will further consolidate Action Directe as the best, most repeated, and coveted sport climb in the world. Also on the sport climbing front Markus Bock has established a new route in the Frankenjura which sounds even harder than Action Directe. And before you start disagreeing, Markus is one of the 8 climbers who has actually climbed AD. Patxi Usobiaga has on-sighted his second f8c route, Pata Negra at Rodellar in Spain. And last but not least 11 year old Geoffray de Flaugergues has climbed an f8b route! Source: Freakclimbing & Moon