by Jack Geldard – Editor – UKC Dan Varian bouldering at Caley Dan Varian and Ned Feehally have repeated Ron Fawcett´s 1986 slab nightmare Toy Boy at Froggatt in the Peak District. Graded E7 7a in the current guide, Dan and Ned opted for a more modern approach, bouldering the route out; ground-up, above crash-pads.Dan reports on the Bigstone Website (with photos): “Big Ron (Fawcett) did Toy Boy in 1986 for the first ascent, thenBen Heason head pointed it in 2001 after 6 or 7 roped sessions. Ned Feehally and I did it as a highball font 7c+ last Friday ground up. Only 2 ascents in 22 years then 2 ascents in 2 hours! We followed up with Slingshot (first ascent Mo Overfield 2000) at highball 7c.” Dan and Ned have a blog: Beastmakerblog where they have shared some of their recent thoughts on these highball problems: Dan blogging: “I´m done for Froggatt highballs after 4 visits. here´s the Froggatthighball list: (with the possible exception of screaming dream and aproject (and maybe rampart with tons of pads))” Mint 400 font 7b+ Narcissus font 7a? (piss) Sole Power: font 7b+ (obviously ground up) Renegade Master: font 7c (ground up second or third go) Slingshot: font 7c/+ (2nd go today after 2 minutes of mucking around a while ago, ground up) Toy Boy: benchmark font 7c+ (very morpho, ground up) Chequers Groove: super solid font 7c+ (2 visits, ground up) “Ned has also crushed Toyboy, Slingshot and Sole Power ground up in a fewgoes for each. They by no means deserve E grades as below 10m (8m defo)everything is pretty much a boulder problem these days (landingsobviously vary).” “We love pads too the more the merrier, if everyone atthe plantation on a weekend stuck a pad under Unfamiliar it´d be fine!Work together people and claim all these routes masquerading asboulders, pads save the ground and your ankles. E grades under 9m are a bit of a joke when pads are involved, learn how to fall off properly too…” The guys also have a product website beastmaker.co.uk where they have amazing looking wooden finger boards for sale, plus training tips and other bouldering info.
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