Dickson Chops Bolts, No Practice And An E9 Emerges

by Simon Cardy In September Neil Dickson reclimbed Hey Gringo on Black Crag (Lundy Island ) without the bolts, renaming it Quetzalcoatl with a suggested grade of E9 6b. Prior to his ascent Neil removed the 5 bolts placed by Gary Gibson in 1988. After a steady start in the lower section (E6 6b territory) the route turns hardcore with a whole heap of run out 6b moves stacked on top of each other with only three skyhooks and an RP Zero as the last gear. Unlike most routes at this level Neil was at pains not to rehearse any of the moves on a top-rope.More atwww.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News.