E8 Ground Up at the Buttermilk

by Mick Ryan – UKClimbing.com Evilution Bishop, California: The Buttermilk highball boulder-route Evilution (V12, Font 8A+ or in UK route speak E8) has received its first ground up ascent from Coloradan, Carlo Traversi. Previous ascents of this impressive line made use of a rope to check out and practice the lofty finishing slab. When does a boulder problem turn in to a route? The line is increasingly blurred especially in the light of rope less ascents of short routes across the globe and recently in the UK, Dan Varian and Ned Feehally´s ascents of routes such as Toy Boy E7 7a (or Font 7C+, V10) at Froggatt in the Peak District.(Nov 6: Dan & Ned – Peak District Toy Boys). No ropes, no pre-practice they boulder the routes out; ground-up, above crash-pads. The Bishop area is well known for its highball boulder problems, so much so that E-grades have been assigned to some of the boulder-routes there to give some comparison to the UK´s grit headpoints (Apr 26: E-grades for American Highball Boulder Problems). Like in the UK some of these boulder-routes are practiced on a rope before an ascent. But as climbers get bolder and stronger, and with multiple crash-pads, an improvement in style is being made. Wills Young gives us the story of Carlo Traversi´s ground up ascent at bishopbouldering.blogspot.com

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