EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS

by Jack Geldard – Editor – UKC Visiting American climbers Kevin Jorgeson, Matt Segaland Alex Honnold have had an amazing gritstone trip. They´ve ticked some classics, shook a few grade myths and pushed gritstone climbing to the limit. Some (but not all) notable ascents and events:Kevin Jorgeson´s ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c) (which was attempted with Ben Bransby, who also came extremely close). Kevin´s repeats and possible down-grades of The Promise (E10 or E8) and The Groove (E11 or E8), which grabbed headlines worldwide. Alex Honnold´s onsight solo of London Wall (E5 6a), a hard and insecure finger crack (note, an on sight solo of this would equate to something like a hard E7 on sight) Alex´s on sight ascent of Master´s Edge (E7 6b) Alex´s third ascent of The Promise (E10 or E8). Matt, Alex and Kevin´s team ascent of End of the Affair (E8 6c) Interestingly Kevin notes in his blog that: “I was super impressed with the difficulty and boldness of Equilibrium. After spending over 7 days working it, I still felt nowhere near ready to lead it. For my body, it has the hardest physical moves of anything I tried on the trip, with certain ground fall from the move I ripped my finger open on. To me, it represents E10.” Equilibrium was first climbed by Sheffield strong-man Neil Bentley in February of 2000, and was first top-roped by Ben Moon back in 1993 at a French grade of F8b+. Repeats have been from the super talented Neil Gresham, and man of the moment, James Pearson. In light of recent grading speculation, it is worth noting that James Pearson made a fast ascent of Equilibrium (over four days) aged just 19, and he is, as John Dunne put it,”the real deal”. The Videos: UKC have a series of three films featuring Alex, Matt and Kevin in action on the grit. Film 1: Kevin (first) then Alex climbing The Promise (E10 or E8) Film 2: Kevin makes the first Ground Up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c) Film 3: Team America climb End of the Affair (E8 6c) (watch out for that no-hands rest!) We will be publishing Film 2 at 9am tomorrow (Thursday) morning and film 3 at 9am on Friday morning. Watch the first film – The Promise:

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