First 9a Climbed by a Woman

This morning, Josune Berziartu from Spain became the first woman ever to climb the ´dream grade´ of 9a.

Josune Berziartu Photo Courtesy of

Josune was also the first woman to climb both 8c (“Honky Tonk”) and 8c+ (“Honky Tonk Mix”), as well the first woman to reach the bouldering grade of Font 8b (8b+ traverse grade, “Travesia de Balzola” at Balzola).But with her latest ascent, climbed only this morning, Josune is certainly doing her best to keep the gap small between the elite men and women.The route in question was Fred Nicole´s famous test piece “Bain De Sang”, at Saint Loup in Switzerland. First climbed by Fred in 1993, “Bain De Sang” was one of the first routes ever to be given, and confirmed, at this grade. Having seen repeats from Fred´s brother Francois, as well as from Rouhling, Bersandi and Houhl, “Bain De Sang” is probably the most repeated 9a anywhere, but none have strongly disputed thae grade, and it remains at 9a. A truly fantastic effort Josune! Thanks to