Free Tibet – New route on Ama Dablam

by Santi Padros – Franceso Fazzi and Santi Padro´s new route on Ama Dablam (6812m) is named Free Tibet 2065 (V+ M5+ 80 degrees, 1500m) and follows the 1985 Japanese Route for part of its length before veering left into new terrain up the headwall. Santi Padro takes up the story: “On April 30, we left basecamp carrying a light tent, sleeping bags and food for 4 days… On May 1, we climbed the first part of the route, adjacent to the Japanese route of 1985 for a time, until we veered left over a serac to settle down for our second bivy… overcoming various pitches of mixed UIAA V-V+ ? exhausted by the high altitude. That night deposited 15cm of fresh snow, with temperatures dropping to fifteen degrees below zero.. Finally, on the evening of May 2, accompanied by a vanishing sun, we reached the summit of Ama Dablam ? only to fall flat into our sleeping bags within our minuscule tent below the imposing presence of the neighbouring Everest. The next day we descended the Southwest Ridge back to our basecamp. We are unaware of any previous route covering this ground, so we are naming our new route Free Tibet”. Full report and photos at the Alpinist Website. ( Source: Alpinist )