Grit Update

by Mick Ryan Tyler Landman, the Ace © Alex Messenger You can´t beat cold conditions on the grit, the crisp days of winter giving optimum conditions for hanging those beautiful slopers and smearing rubber on non-existent foot holds. In 2001 Malcom Smith repeated both Ron Fawcett´s 1987 testpiece Careless Torque (E6/7 7a, Font 8a+), the arete on the Not To Be Taken Away boulder at Stanage and then went on to repeat Jerry Moffat´s Ace Font 8b (V13) the sit down start to the Joker also at the Stanage Plantation. Both these problems (climbs!) have had repeats in the last two weeks. First grit guru John Welford made the fifth ascent of Careless Torque and like all previous four ascents it was after practicing the highball finishing moves. Then 15 year old Tyler Landman made an impressive ascent of the Ace. Irish Si reports on ukbouldering.com that, „15, yes you heard it 15 year old Tyler Landman has made an impressive repeat of the Ace 8B at the plantation. After very nearly doing it in a session it finally took him 3/4 sessions, which is very impressive indeed, considering how long it took Malc and Ben. Waddage! „

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