Infos zum Rock Master 2005 in Arco, Italien

Alle Jahre wieder findet im norditalienischen Arco der traditionsreichste Kletterwettkampf der Welt statt: Das Rock Master.

diesem Einladungswettkampf werden nur die Besten der Besten geladen und
dies nun schon im 20ten (!) Jahr.  Grund genug für die
italienischen Veranstalter diesen Wettkampf heuer zu etwas ganz
besonderem zu machen. So gibt es aus diesem Anlass auch u.a. die
Präsentation eines Buchs und eines Films “ARCO – Rock Master
Story”, bei der Protagonisten aus den 20 Jahren Rock Master anwesend
sein werden.

Eine wirklich tolle Sache. Nachfolgend findet ihr
das vorläufige Programm und Informationen, die ich
freundlicherweise von den Betreibern von – der
offiziellen Seite des Wettkampfs – erhalten habe.

19th Rock Master, the trophy for the climbing champions, takes place on
3-4/09/2005 at Arco (Trentino, N. Italy). This edition begins with a
special preview: a celebration on Friday 2 September of the 20th
anniversary of climbing competitions at Arco. A book and a film retrace
the various stages of the most noble competition in the world.

3 and Sunday 4 September 2005 at Arco (Trentino, N. Italy) the best
climbers in the world will contend for the 19th Rock Master trophy, the
most sought-after and prestigious competition in the history of sports
climbing. As always these will be two days of great climbing reserved
for the best only and the enthusiastic spectators. Rock Master is a
true sporting festival: only the best in the world take part, only the
greatest of every era have won the title. And it has always been this
way, since the very beginning which coincides perfectly with the
history of sports climbing competitions. For it is exactly here, on the
shores of Lake Garda, that this young sport made its first tentative
steps. It is because of this that Rock Master is the most noble,
historically important and crowd teasing competition of all. It's true
passion that rekindles every year since 1987. And this passion will
truly enthuse and excite the spectators in Arco’s Climbing

2005 will be a special edition: the celebration of the
20th anniversary of climbing competitions at Arco. Because in 1986 the
second edition of Sport Roccia, a competition twinned with
Bardonecchia, was held on the Monte Colodri rock face. Just one year
later in 1987 Arco invented Rock Master, the competition reserved for
the best climbers in the world. Twenty years have passed since a group
of friends and Arco town councillors decided to start this great
adventure: no other climbing competition can boast such long and
successful tradition. A book and film recounting this story have been
published and will be presented on Friday 2 September at the Arco town
casino. The champions and protagonists of these two climbing decades
will attend the evening’s presentation.

As always the top
ten in the world ranking are invited to Rock Master and these can be
joined by four wild cards chosen by the organisation. The current world
champions Angela Eiter and Tomasz Mrazek will take part, as will
Alexander Chabot from France, winner of the last three editions, the
Spaniards Ramon Julien Puigblanque and Patxi Usobiaga, Sandrine Levet
from France, Alexandra Eyer from Switzerland, but above all the current
World Cup leader Flavio Crespi from Italy and the Italian champion
Jenny Lavarda.

As tradition has it, the classic Rock Master
difficulty comeptition will be joined by the Sint Roc Boulder Contest,
the thrilling knock-out confrontation for the strongest specialists of
short and intense boulder problems. This will be followed by the Speed
competition, or rather the competition for the sprinters in search of
new records on the great Climbing Stadium wall in Arco. The event will
be completed with Sunday’s fantastic Ennio Lattisi Trophy, the
duel in which the top four Rock Master athletes compete on two
identical and parrallel routes.

Saturday 3 and Sunday 4 will be a 48-hour great climbing immersion!
All info on


FRIDAY 2 September 2005

  • Town Casino
    17.00 press conference and presentation of book and film:
    ARCO – Rock Master Story
    The protagonists of 20 years Rock Master will attend.
  • 19.30 buffet for press and guests
  • 21.00 evening for all to attend,
    presentation of the book and film: Arco – Rock Master Story
    The protagonists of 20 years Rock Master will attend.

SATURDAY 3 September 2005

  • 10.00 Crag Policromuro – Massone
    Climbing with the champions:
    Patrick Edlinger, Stefan Glowacz, Luisa Iovane…
  • 14.00 Climbing stadium
    Rock Master 1st round “on-sight”
  • 20.30 Climbing stadium
    Speed competition
  • 22.00 Climbing stadium
    Sint Roc Boulder Contest – Women’s competition

SUNDAY 4 September 2005

  • 9.00 Climbing stadium
    Rock Master 2nd round “after-work”
  • 14.00 Climbing stadium
    Sint Roc Boulder Contest – Men’s competition
  • 15.00 Climbing stadium
    Duel -Ennio Lattisi Trophy
  • 16.30 Climbing stadium
    Award’s ceremony
  • 18.00 Caffè Conti d’Arco, da Pio
    Rock Master Party

the second edition of Sport Roccia takes place in Arco, heralding the
start of climbing competitions. It is a direct result of outdoor
climbing on Arco’s crags which become representative for the
evolution of sports climbing worldwide. In 1987 Rock Master is born in
Arco, the competition for the champions which to present day is the
most important event in the climbing competition calendar. Since 1988
Rock Master has taken place on artificial climbing walls. 2005
celebrates therefore the twentieth anniversay of the historical first
meeting of Arco and competitions.

Rock Master Trophy

  • when: Saturday 3 (14.00) and Sunday 4 September 2005 (09.00)
  • where: Climbing Stadium Arco, 18m high, 15m overhanging
  • formula:
    this classic difficulty competition takes place over a two-day period:
    Saturday's onsight and Sunday's after work redpoint. The points (i.e.
    height) are added to create the final results.
  • athletes: 10-15 climbers in both the men's and women's competition, invited on the basis of the continuously updated world ranking.
  • winners 2004: Alexandre Chabot (FRA) – Angela Eiter (AUT)
  • All info on

Sint Roc Bouldering Contest

  • when: Saturday 3 September (22.00) women's competition – Sunday 4 September (14.00) men's competition.
  • where:
    Climbing Stadium Arco, on a series of specially created boulders
    formula: 4 boulder problems can be worked prior to the competition.
    Each problem eliminates the worst competitor, resulting in 2 or 3
    athletes competing on the final fourth boulder problem. 
  • athletes: 8-10 boulderers for both the male and female categories, by invitation only.
  • winners 2004: Müller Matthias SUI – Son Mélanie FRA
  • All info on

Speed competition

  • when: Saturday 3 September (start 20.00)
  • where: Climbing Stadium Arco, central wall
  • formula: Men’s
    head to head, sudden death competition on two identical, parallel
    routes. The athletes are allowed to try the route for 30 minutes
  • athletes: the best 10 sprinters in the world.
  • winner 2004: Alexei Gadeev (RUS) with 11,82 seconds
  • competition record: Tomasz Oleksy 10,85 (in the final for 3rd and 4th place 2004)
  • All info on