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Lies about Shingu Charpa (5600m), Karakoram, Pakistan

Apr 1, 2007

On September 11, 2006, Alpinist published a NewsWire on the first ascent of Shingu Charpa´s north ridge by a Ukrainian team led by Igor Chaplinsky. In Issue 18, Chaplinsky wrote a first-person note on the ascent, which he claimed had been executed by Andrey Rodiontse, Orest Verbitsky and himself. The Ukrainians, it appeared, had snagged a much-coveted first ascent, all free, of Shingu Charpa´s 1550-meter north ridge, just as a pair of American climbers, Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton, arrived for a crack at the same objective. Now it appears Chaplinsky lied about his team´s ascent, perhaps in a bid to compete for Montagne Magazine´s Piolet d´Or. It is Alpinist´s rule of thumb to abide by an established climbing tradition: a climber´s word is generally accepted as the truth unless compelling evidence suggests otherwise. Alpinist publishes first-hand accounts on climbs and expeditions whenever possible to present the words of the climbers themselves. This retains the original source of the information (information tends to lose accuracy each generation it is removed from its original source). Furthermore, when authors sign their names to their reports, they certify the information´s authenticity. Full story at Alpinist.com. ( Source: Alpinist ) News headlinesBrowse 3 months of news No more recent news… April 2007: Lies about Shingu Charpa (5600m), Karakoram, Pakistan March 2007: 1,600ft Desert Tower: Winter Chatyn Ascent: Jet-powered human flight State of the BMC….."´if it works don´t fix it." Sellers flashes Balance It Is DMM Phantom Carabiner. The world´s lightest? Queen Guitarist Rocks for Rock Climbing BMC Youth Climbing Series results – round 2 VIDEO: Gaz Parry On Two Font 8b´s Tremadog Festival Comp News: Climbing Works Cliff Vegetation Study Means No Climbing Fun Today: Tremadog, Sheffield, Ambleside Katherine Schirrmacher Personal Bouldering Best The Hard Rock Challenge So You Think You Are Hard? Lake District Via Ferrata Dean Potter And Patagonia Part Ways A Coffee-Fuelled Gaz Parry Hits South Lakes Chamonix Alpine Report North Wales Bouldering News. World Dyno Record Broken Sheffield Adventure Film Forum Returns Danion and Lama win European Bouldering Championship David Barrans qualifys at the Bouldering Championships Congratulations to Sir Ran….Success On The Eiger IFSC European Bouldering Championships: Women Live action from the European Bouldering Championships Eiger News: Bullock, Steck, Fiennes, Harlin III Become A Sponsored Hero American Alpine Club Journal Available Online 3PeaksAfrica For Comic Relief Rockfax Pokketz Guidebooks Two 8c+´s in a day for David Graham Alan Mullin Passes Away Sea of Change Sweeps the Climbers´ Club Countdown to CLIMB 2007 Ben Cossey, The True Master of The Master´s Edge? Stewart Watson, 4th ascent of Ben Moon´s Voyager, Font 8b Jordan Buys On Form and Cranking: Onsights E8 Parry Climbs Last Great Parisella?s Cave Problem: Font 8a+ Marketing Department loses the plot Dave MacLeod All Round Climber To Limit Long Falls Off Angel´s Share New Winter Routes on Winter Meet Holding On – From Cancer to the Seven Summits How To Become A Super Climber Controversy Still Follows Maestri´s "murder of the impossible" DMM to manufacture alloy offset nuts Pembroke DWS Fest and Gower Bouldering Wiki Longstone Edge Public Inquiry – "a thoroughly depressing affair" February 2007: Scottish Winter Climbing – What´s the point? Marko PrezeljRejects 2007 Piolet D´Or An American Discovers Scottish Winter Delights Winter International Meet update BMC´s Better Bolts Campaign Launched Gogarthgate……continued…the organic guidebook. Another Font 8b Font 8b, Director´s Cut Repeat For Gaz Parry Help Save The Peak District Climbing Wall Meets Swimming Pool Ines Papert imposes Law and Order M13 Macleod Repeats an E8 and establishes a new Font 8b at ´Dumby´ A Bouldering First For James Pearson Skipping Clips on Maestri´s ?Compressor Route?, Cerro Torre Ground Up To Produce Competing Gogarth Definitive Guidebook. Climbers´ Club Range West MiniGUIDE Dog and Beacon Save Climbers on Mount Hood American Woman, Emily Harrington Climbs 8c The Peak Bolt Fund Gogarth Guidebook Controversy Moves to CC Website Fyffe and Ashworth Climb Major Ben Nevis Winter Route Andy Earl Climbs Careless Torque..Onsight of course CC Gogarth Guide – Where is it? An Update BMC – Never Stop Working – For You Money and Politics and Hueco Tanks North Wales Rock Now Available Dave Macleod Climbs Another 8c+ Alpkit Nick at the service of Glyn Jones Ben Nevis Conditions Report Climbing Magazine´s Golden Piton Awards Bangor student gets stuck in Cromlech squeeze Chris McNamara Big Waller and BASE jumper Lisa Rands Climbs High and Hard BMC Alpine Essentials Series 2007 January 2007 headlines…