Lucy Creamer Gets Second 8b

by Mick Ryan Her second 8b With onsights of E6, E7 and 8a, a first ascent of an M9 in Colorado (that recently got retrobolted because no-one could repeat it) Lucy Creamer has now added a second 8b redpoint to her impressive climbing CV, her first was Huecool at Gordale Scar. Climbing in France late spring and early summer she proved that she was on fire.At Ceuse Lucy onsighted several 7c+´s and redpointed two 8a+´s, first and second go, that is putting the clips in then redpointing next go. At St. Leger she onsighted several 7c´s and redpointed another 8a+ first go. Prior to Ceuse at La Balme she redpointed an 8a that she nearly onsighted, she says, “I was millimetres away from doing it, very frustrating.” It was at St. Leger du Ventoux, France, that Lucy pulled out all the stops on an ascent of Abregnief, a steep and powerful roof and wall with three distinct cruxes that weighs in at 8b. The route took her 5 days of practice with a three day rest to unlock the sequence and reach the chains in one push.