Dave Birkett has headed North for a change, this time to repeat Holdfast, Dave MacLeod´s E9 7a at Glen Nevis. He confirmed the grade. You can check out the trailer to a forthcoming film by Alastair Lee about Dave Birkett, called Set In Stone. A comprehensive programme of equipment replacement and renewal is to take place in the North Wales slate quarries courtesy of a band of local activists headed by Chris Parkin. Rest assured that they won´t be adding any extra bolts to the notorious run-outs… Source: UKClimbing The Polish Pustelnik brothers (Adam and Pawel) have established a major new route in the Ak-Su valley of Kyrgyzstan. The 21 pitch Amba is VI/5.12d/5.13a. The pair used just 3 existing aid bolts from an unknown route which criss-crossed theirs, and placed only one of their own, climbing it in good style with long run-outs. The pair also teamed up with ex-Sheffield resident Slawek Cyndecki to make an onsight ascent of Perestroika Crack, 5.12b on the Russian Tower.As the season draws to a close in Yosemite Nico Favaresse (Belgian) and Ivo Nonov (Bulgarian) made the first ever ground up , free first aset on El Cap. Lost In translation is 10 pitches long, 5.12b/c, and tackles the Easter side of the face. It encompasses pitches from a number of other routes. Also in Yosemite Dean Potter has added another impressive solo to his credentials. Heaven Crack is a 40 foot overhanging 5.12d/5.13a crack. Source: Climbing ———————————————————————– If you have any news worth reporting please contact Matt – matt@planetfear.com / 0114 2969114 ———————————————————————–
