Moroccan Marauders

Toni Lamprecht reports on a recent trip to Morrocco in which the team established a series of hard multi pitch sport climbs on excellent rock. From the 31st of March until the 24th of April the free wall team of the German alpine club took a trip to the Taghia Gorge. The team consisted of Toni Lamprecht, Daniel Gebel, Christoph Gotschke, Benno Wagner, Markus Grieshammer and Benno Wagner. The targets and the expectations of the team were fulfilled: 5 new routes up to F8a+ and the repeats of some classic routes up to F7c . 2 of the long new routes, with multiple 7th grade pitches, Toni would put in his Top 5 best limestone multipitch routes in Europe. The team was supported mainly by 3 weeks of good weather and a lucky hand by choosing the best possibilities for new routes. The 800m high walls around the small village Taghia are in the middle of a dreamlike climbing valley, where time is still slow and the possibilities for new pioneering are awesome. Taghia is a small Berber village of 300 super friendly and hospitable people, set high in the Atlas Mountains. Accessible only by 4 wheel-drive and a 4 hour walk through an amazing gorge the village is nestled in a beautiful, quiet green valley around 2000m above sea level and surrounded by 3000m peaks. The routes are all accessible within a 20 minute to 3 hour walk from the village.   The 5 new routes were: -?Fata Morgana”, F7c (5.12c), 330m, 10 pitches, 1st ascent: Daniel Gebel andChristoph Gotschke from the 3rd until the 7th of April. One-Day-Ascent on the 13th ofApril. -D´ Antonion and the 3 Mousquetaires”, F7c+ (5.13a), 350m, 11 pitches, 1st ascent:Paul Sass, Benno Wagner, Markus Grieshammer and Toni Lamprecht from the 4thuntil the 9th of April. One-Day-Ascent on the 16th of April. -Mastermind”, F7c+ (5.13a), 150m, 5 pitches, 1st ascent: Daniel Gebel, ChristophGotschke and Toni Lamprecht on the 12th and the 14th of April. One-Day-Ascent onthe 16th of April. -Fire Inside”, F8a (5.13b), 1st ascent: Daniel Gebel on the 18th of April. -Muy Benno”, F8a/b (5.13c), 1st ascent: Daniel Gebel and Benno Wagner on the 20thof April.  ?and repeated the following routes:   -Jamiro”, F7a (5.11c-variation), 11 pitches, Markus Grieshammer and Benno Wagner(3.4.)   -Riviere Purpur”, F7b+ (5.12b), 11 pitches, Markus Grieshammer und Benno Wagner(4.4.) -“Fata Morgana”, F7c (5.12c), 10 pitches, Christoph Gotschke und Toni Lamprecht(13.4.)   -“Fantasia”, F7bc (5.12bc), 11 pitches, Paul Sass and Benno Wagner (14.4.)   -La Mano de la Maroc”, F7b+ (5.12b), 13 pitches, Paul Sass, Benno Wagner and ToniLamprecht (17.4.)   -“Le Zebta”, F7b+ (5.12b), 8 pitches, Daniel Gebel and Christoph Gotschke (17.4.)   -Fata Morgana”, F7c (5.12c ? with the exit of Riviere Purpur”), 15 pitches, Paul Sassand Daniel Gebel (19.4.)   The team likes to thank the German Alpine Club and their sponsors for the support. ———————————————————————– If you have any news worth reporting please contact Matt – matt@planetfear.com / 0114 2969114 ———————————————————————–

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