New Line on Mount Robson by Steve House and Colin Haley

by Colin Haley “Excited by a good forecast, Steve House drove north from Bend on Wednesday, May 23, for his sixth attempt on the Emperor (northwest) Face of Mt. Robson (12,989´), the Canadian Rockies´s tallest peak. Fortunately all of the more talented climbers he approached could not go, so I met him in Seattle on Wednesday evening, and we drove up to Valemount, British Columbia, the next morning. That afternoon we flew by helicopter into the Helmet-Robson col at the base of Fuhrer Ridge (IV 5.4, 2500m, Carlson-Hainsworth-Fuhrer, 1938) to avoid the twenty-seven kilometer trek. Steve had made the approach a number of times before and didn´t want to chance the traverse under The Mist Icefall, a dangerously active serac, again. We left the col (10,200´) at 4:30 a.m. on May 25 and descended the Mist Glacier to 8,000 feet, where our line on the Emperor Face began. We found excellent, firm ice conditions on our route….” For a full report visit: ( Source: Alpinist )