Patxi in Austria – F8c Onsight

Patxi Usobiaga on Absinth, 8c, SparchenBjörn Pohl – UKC, 28 Jul 2010© Patxi UsobiagaI don't think Patxi Usobiaga was satisfied with his 7th spot in the Arco Rock Master, even though his shoulder isn't 100% yet. The plan now was to go to Sparchen, an area near Kufstein in Austria. Once there, the chances of any climbing being done looked bleak after 48 hours of rain, but after almost going to the gym in Innsbruck, the team decided to give it a go after all and see if anything was dry. It turned out a few of the routes were.After warming up on Mettalica, 7c+, (not ideal) Patxi was going to try Tequila, an 8a which is also the first part of Absinth, 8c. The plan wasn't to go for it, but as he felt good, he figured “why not?” and just kept climbing. Amazingly enough, and with lots of encouraging from the people on the ground, he succeeded!As far as I know, this was the 2nd onsight of this 20m crimp feast of a route, after Adam Ondra, and Patxi's first 8c onsight in two years. Happy times!Patxi then went on to onsight Johnny Walker Spezial, ~8b at the same crag and also Caramello, 8b, in the nearby Zillertal.

Patxi Usobiaga at the Arco Rockmaster 2010 where he placed 7th.Jack Geldard – Editor – UKC, 28 Jul 2010© Jack Geldard / UKC

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