Scott Muir writes about his latest tick, the Second ascent of America?s hardest mixed route Jedi Mind Tricks M13: I have never been to or seen such an amazing rock formation in all my life. As Ryan described to me ?God took his hand and drank the water falling from the cliff top, sculpting the most perfect mixed cave imaginable?, he isn?t religious and he certainly wasn?t joking. Gods Crag sits at 11,000ft above the idyllic and remote Lake City Colorado. The initial 4hr trail breaking mission across big avalanche country makes this alpine crag the most serious, the most time consuming and the most committing sport mixed crag in the world. Every other day took 2 long hours from the trailhead, but the reward of warm sun from a ?17 degree valley floor until 2pm made it so much more pleasant. Jared Ogden and Ryan Nelson made the first ascent of this route last winter, both claiming the first ascent. They did this because of the amount of time and effort, bolting and climbing such a route takes.Jedi Mind Tricks is by far the hardest route I have ever completed in the world, taking four days of sustained effort and 4 redpoint attempts. Personally it felt much harder than Game Over M13, a route I completed earlier in the season. The route is 20 roof-bolts in length and features unusual hard volcanic pockets, requiring great care and precision due to the hard skittery nature of the rock. Normally the picks bite into the soft schist or limestone but this stuff required accuracy and complete control. The crux 5 totally horizontal metres is very technical, involving multiple strenuous and delicate foot changes to keep the feet on the roof, as the tool edges are not good enough to support dynamic moves or total body weight. Scott on Jedi Mind Tricks. Phtographer: Laura Lawrance As usual the plague of most climbers attempting super hard routes around the world is finding someone willing to commit time, energy and money to solely helping the cause. It is one factor that makes completing these routes so much harder and why I am always super grateful for assistance, without them it wouldn?t be possible. Once again, Laura Lawrance filled this role and selflessly ploughing a track to the crag. Gods Crag, currently holds two more routes Heiroglyphics M9 + and Padowan Learner M7+. Ryan and Jared have another project on the go that looks very, very hard. I guess I?II be going back! ———————————————————————– If you have any news worth reporting please contact Matt – firstname.lastname@example.org / 0114 2969114 ———————————————————————–
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