Start News Sportklettern & Bouldern

The new Graham report

Dave Graham reports he was in Ceüse for all of August trying Realization. He says he tried really harduntill he was defeated by himself, the route; the weather, all that shit. He ended up falling a bunch of times from that upper crux, which, was pretty cool. Eventually he managed to take the split finger pocket he was going for the whole time twice, so at least he made some progress. Only one more move… Dave managed to onsight some shit which was cool. Rat Man, hard 8a+ and Bouze de douze, easy 8a+ and he also finished most of the easier things he had never done, leaving about 12 bolted routes in Ceuse left to do, minus the multi pitches on the Grand Face and the Nithsapa sector. Also he did an 8b+ he doesn´t know the name of second try. It was a long scary, but quite cool route. Other then that, Chris Sharma and Dave climbed a “terrifying but beautifuly inticing” arête in La Cappelle in the south of France, maybe 8a but brilliant moves on brilliant rock. Dave says he´s been learning how to climb these crazy colonette things, doing an 8b in 2 tries called Le Jeunesse Mutants at Pic St loup, which Chris, made a “bad ass” onsight of. At Claret he did another 8a+ an sent Elziver 8b+ in two tries, and Biotôp, 8b+, in a couple of tries. After this they went to Switzerland since Dave wanted to give Chris and the posse a little tour for a week. Chris tried Dreamtime and got psyched, while Dave had a play on his favorites in the Tessin, a little reminiscing. He says he got really tired, but managed two 8A+ problems: Magdolina, and a sideways thing the name he doesn´t know and a 7C+ called Propellerheads in one day. Chris did Serra moi fort, Rah plats, plats and Doigt vert, three 8A´s in Chironico as well over the trip. Dave finishes by saying that “All together, it´s been beautiful here in the south of France, life is good, and hopefully something crazy will happen in the future…” Well, I for one, believe him…

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