The Promise- Kevin´s account

by Kevin Jorgeson Grit Update 5: The Promise, 2nd Ascent 28 October 2008Today I managed to climb The Promise at Burbage North for its second ascent. On my initial inspection twodays ago on rappel, I didn´t even try the moves. The original beta just seemed completely out of the question.Returning today, looking at the chalk on the holds, I visualized a new possibility for the beta and gave it a try.This involved turning a right hand pocket to an undercling, which as a result shortened the reach to a bad sloper.I quickly did the moves with the new beta on top rope, rested, and climbed it clean on top rope. After figuringout how to place the slider nut, which was surprisingly bomber, I was ready to go. I climbed up, placed thepiece and returned to the ground. On the lead, there always seems to be some unplanned decision to be made.For me, it was the position of my right foot on a key hold relative to the rope. This unplanned decision resultedin me placing my right foot a little wrong, requiring a readjustment. Once in place, the crux move felt quite a bitharder than I was anticipating. Luckily, there was enough tolerance in the move that I was still able to stick it.The whole process took about an hour.The obvious question that arose was regarding the grade. After climbing Parthian Shot, The New Statesman,and The Promise and having spent two days on Equilibrium and one on The Groove, my opinion is that thegrade falls at E8, 5.13c/d R. The reason for this is that a fall from the crux would not result in a ground fall,assuming the gear holds. Regarding the gear, the only way that it would fail is if the cables broke. After bouncetesting the piece while clipped directly into my harness, I was confident that it would hold. It should also bestated that I placed two crashpads at the base of the climb. All in all, the route climbs wonderfully and wouldhighly recommend it to anyone!MORE PHOTOS: Kevin Jorgeson´s website is: Kevin is sponsored by Marmot, Asana Packworks, Sterling Rope,Black Diamond, Superfeet, Raw Revolution and Five Ten.