by Jack Geldard – Editor – UKC UKC have a series of three films featuring Alex, Matt and Kevin in action on the grit. Film 1: Kevin (first) then Alex climbing The Promise (E10 or E8) Film 2: Kevin makes the first Ground Up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c) Film 3: Team America climb End of the Affair, (Alex Honnold flashes it) (E8 6c) (watch out for that no-hands rest!) We have placed these as small sized films on the news page. To see these films in a larger size – visit out articles page: FILM 1 – Article FILM 2 – Article FILM 3 – Article The End of The Affair – some background: Considered one of the easier E8´s in the UK, End of the Affair was first climbed in 1986 by grit visionary Johnny Dawes. It has had many headpoint repeats and is reportedly around the F7b mark when top-roped. Leading this fearsome-smear-fest of an arete is very different to your average F7b bolt route though; tenuous smears, reachy, balancy moves and a bone breaking fall all add up to make a classic gritstone frightener. Interesting ascents (or falls) have come from Ryan Pasquill in 2006 with the first flash (and second ever flash of a gritstone E8 – after Ryan also flashed Countdown to Disaster at Ilkley), and also from Ben Heason and Ben Bransby who have both soloed the route. Dave Pickford took the full fall from the top crux moves back when he was a teenager – proving the famous description”death from the top floor” isn´t quite true (although he had to be airlifted out!).Watch the third film – End of the Affair:
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