Strong Irishman, ex-Sheffield and now Boulder, Colorado resident Simon Moore has climbed Freshly Squeezed V13 / Font 8b in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), Colorado. Simon becomes the first Irishman to climb this spectactular grade. Read more at moonclimbing.com Also in RMNP, Daniel Woods has completed the long standing project formerly known as Green 45. Now named Jade, it comes in at a hefty grade of V15 / Font 8c, making it one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. The climbing is described as featuring a “stopper V13 crux surf to a left gaston, a move tried by the best and failed on by most. V11 climbing finishes out the wicked-steep wall.”Read more and see some pictures at climbing.com and ukbouldering On a slightly stranger note, the young Czech climbing phenomenon Adam Ondra, 14, has been penalized by the Czech mountaineering association for using chalk in a sandstone area. The penalty is a 10% reduction in his grant. The area is the famous elbe valley where strict local ethics mean no chalk use and no metal protection – this includes nuts, cams, hex´s etc.. instead using knotted ropes for protection or very spaced ring bolts. And you thought that British climbing ethics and the BMC where tough? The 8a.nu climbing forums have some intriguing insights into both this controversy and the local climbing ethics. Read a superb article from Katherine Schirrmacher on this classic Czech tradition of climbing at planetFear>>
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